Bindweed - Mexican Marigolds ...

Discussion in 'Allotments Discussion' started by zappamusic2010, Aug 1, 2016.

  1. zappamusic2010

    zappamusic2010 Gardener

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    Hello all,

    Some will have seen from my posts in 'Identification Area' that I have moved house and so also gained a new garden!

    At the bottom of my garden is essentially an allotment. Although the raised beds are rotten & need replacing, everything is over grown & infested with weeds I'm confident I can make it quite a special place for growing my own.

    Anyway the point of the thread, I have an issue with BINDWEED!! I've read various horror stories!! Both neighbours gardens have it too and don't seemed to want to combat it or don't realise how persistent it can be. At the moment it is on the perimeter of my plot but is encroaching closer!

    Sorry organic gardeners however I'm already treating with Gallup 360 & will continue until the end of the season. I will then dig up as much as possible (root!)

    I was amazed to read that Mexican marigolds release something from their roots which either repels or kills bindweed! Is this true? Has anyone tried it? Do French & African Marigolds also work?

    It's crossed my mind to plant a perimeter of marigolds before I start my planting next year ...

    Many thanks for any wisdom that comes my way. I'm sure I'll be heading this way more when I'm growing next season!

    Chris
     
  2. Jack McHammocklashing

    Jack McHammocklashing Sludgemariner

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    I can not answer regards the Marigolds, Now it is all down to size and affordability
    I used paving stones upended and 18 inches deep as a border round my garden, ie edge on dropped down 18 inches, I picked them up ex council tip and I only needed 120 of them

    Good luck

    Regards Jack McH
     
  3. pete

    pete Growing a bit of this and a bit of that....

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    I've never heard of marigolds killing bind weed, its usually the other way round.:biggrin:

    I'd let the bind weed get some good growth going and then hit it with the glyphosate, best before the end of the month though.
    It should kill off most of the roots but as with all things, some will remain to carry on next year, so be prepared to treat any that comes up next summer, but it should be weaker.
     
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    • shiney

      shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

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      I agree about using the glyphosate but don't try digging the bindweed up. Any bits of roots that may break off whilst digging will start a new plant! A few weeks after application of the glyphosate you can pull some of the bindweed up but don't dig.

      The best method for pulling is to grip the plant close to the ground, by gathering all the runners that are coming from each root, and pull gently directly upwards. This may allow a good few inches of root to come out of the ground. If you just yank it out it will just break off at the surface. Either burn it or put it into the green waste bin. Never on your compost heap or bin.
       
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      • zappamusic2010

        zappamusic2010 Gardener

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        Yes thanks for that. Good advice regarding the pulling technique.

        I've put a few doses of Gallup 360 on the area already. It might seem excessive however I'm considering applying it weekly until the end of the month (I won't be planting until 2017 anyway). A little sad though as I've sacrificed some shrubs & a few small fruit trees. It would've been near impossible to apply the weed killer without affecting these surrounding plants etc.

        HOWEVER I felt it was a problem that needed getting on top of before I start growing all sorts of wonderful wonderfulness!!

        When it comes to pulling them I'll follow the advice given.

        I'll continue to read up on the Mexican marigolds etc, it was to try and get proactive on the situation rather than reactive!

        Thanks
         
      • shiney

        shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

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        In my opinion applying every week is completely unnecessary :noidea:

        You should have been able to avoid troubling the fruit trees and shrubs by keeping the Gallup below leaf level. The bindweed should have been cut, or broken off, close to the ground (maybe 6") and then you should have waited until the new growth had grown a few inches. Then applied it to the new growth. It gets absorbed much better through new growth. Applying to the upper growth is not so effective.
         
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        • zappamusic2010

          zappamusic2010 Gardener

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          A lot of the bindweed was cut down by about halfway. Yes unfortunately I would've loved to have untangled each individual tree and shrub or cut it, then wait & added the weed killer (would've had to be by hand individually due to proximity to other shrubs & density) however I didn't put the context ... when trying to get control of this problem and the rest of the garden, filling an 8 yard builders skip up to the brim with over grown weeds & rotten wood from the raised beds, decorating a house, looking after my 1 year old daughter & working - time is not something I have at the moment and progress needed to be & has been swiftly made.

          With the ground cleared apart from weeds at approx 1 foot I can generally monitor the work of the weed killer in this section of the garden freeing my time - the weekly additions is to stop any new stuff appearing or being eliminated while young/small so it doesn't end up in the same state again.
           
        • David E Peacock

          David E Peacock Gardener

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          I have read all the previous comments aimed at eradicating "The scourge of Bindweed" and admit to already having tried most of them over the last three or so years.

          But every spring it's back again with the first growths and apparently even more prolific than the previous year!

          Advice I had been given (and one I have adopted) was to "pull" when growth was long enough and to keep on pulling throughout the season. This treatment seems to keep it in check but does little to remove the problem.

          Before my retirement I worked away Monday's to Friday and most of my beds became negrected. It was during this period that the Bindweed seemed to take over all my hedges!

          Looking back and considering all my efforts, I almost dispare to be honest! I have almost considered 'liking' the large white trumpet flowers among my hedges!

          I hate to admit, but I do feel that the Scourge is winning!
           
        • pete

          pete Growing a bit of this and a bit of that....

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          I've lived with bindweed for years, I dont think you ever eradicate it entirely how ever you go about it.
          I do think digging is the best way, but you need to be careful to remove every piece of white root you find, its how I did in it initially on my overgrown allotment over 30yrs ago, it was also infested with couch grass which is pretty bad also.
          In those days I never used weedkillers, so it was a case of dig, remove what root you can, and then pull any regrowth.
          It does work but its hard work.

          As I've always understood with glyphosate, the more top growth there is the better the up take, and the more that will reach the roots.
          Spraying/watering it onto mostly bare soil is a waste as it becomes inactive once it contacts soil.

          One application can take up to two weeks to show any effects, its not really something you should be applying weekly, there is no point.
           
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          • zappamusic2010

            zappamusic2010 Gardener

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            I think it's learning to live with some things. My 1 & only previous garden was small and was essentially ripped up & started from scratch. I knew every blade of grass!

            Living in a more rural location in a bigger garden - I'll try to weaken & get rid of what I can thn move on ... As I said previously be more proactive in prevention. Regular weeding, hoeing, maybe occasional spot weed killer.

            This is a link to an article I've found regarding the topic for your perusal (I hope it works!)

            https://wellywoman.wordpress.com/2012/03/09/the-weed-killing-plant/
             
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            • shiney

              shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

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              The problem with using Tagetes minuta is that you're replacing one weed with another possible problem - and giving yourself extra work that you obviously don't have time for. That's apart from the rather unpleasant smell of the plant!

              I've used the 'pulling method' for the last 40 years as we don't use chemicals - and couldn't use them around the other plants.

              There is no doubt that the amount of bindweed has reduced over the years because of the pulling - but not by more than 25%.

              I don't find that 'pulling' is an onerous task as it also gives me time to get a proper look at what's growing and how it's doing. Apart from all the lawns I have about a third of an acre of growing space (beds and veggies). The weekly 'pulling' patrol takes about ten minutes in the Spring rising to 30 minutes in the Summer, and then tapering off again. Of course, when we go away (which we do fairly often) the bindweed has grown more but it doesn't take any longer to pull (except occasionally it gives a bit more trouble with removing the bits caught in the other plants).

              Most of us have found that with a number of perennial weeds we can't get obsessive otherwise we would end up nervous wrecks. Some weeds are there for life. We also have horsetail, a much more difficult weed to deal with chemically, and I include it in my 'pulling' patrol.

              I've never yet got cats to be useful in the garden and do some of the weeding :doh: but maybe you might, eventually, train your daughter to help :noidea: :heehee:

              Good luck :blue thumb:
               
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