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How to fill a patchy Forsythia hedge?

Discussion in 'NEW Gardeners !' started by Roy22, Jun 29, 2014.

  1. Roy22

    Roy22 Apprentice Gardener

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    I’m separated from my neighbours by a several decades old Forsythia hedge, turning into privet one later on. At the near end it’s perched upon an improvised retaining wall (their land being about a metre higher than ours) made from the odd breeze block and broken up old concrete patio chunks like a crude dry stone wall. It gradually becomes more soil and less rock etc as it progresses away from the house. Our soil quality is excellent and most things grow fast.

    The Forsythia‘s always been thin at the near (rockier) end. Our old neighbour had a conventional wooden fence panel the other side of it, not sure if this was just a boundary marker, or to hide the Forsythia’s gappyness (caused by poor soil/rock mix) or whether the heavy shade from the panel & our kitchen extension caused the Forsythia not to flourish here.

    Anyway, this didn’t matter until our new young neighbours removed the old leaning fence panel, replacing it with a wire mesh fence and privet twiglets which they neglected to the point of death. We’d like to fill the large gap they don’t care about.

    The most immediate thought was new Forsythia plants, though we’re not sure how well they’ll fare in the imperfect soil/rock mix and partial shade.

    Another idea was to plant a shrub. English Laurel is the commonest suggestion, but one many regard as a potential fast growing monster, poisonous to anything around it. Electric trimmers (I use these over a very long length & width of privet hedge) are said to leave an untidy sight with English laurel’s larger leaves. Whatever shrub I choose will get zero maintenance from our young neighbours’ side.

    Portuguese Laurel is considered less invasive and easier to trim, at the price of slower growth & higher cost.

    The wedge shaped patch of rock/soil to span is about 8 foot long, just a foot wide at the near end but 2 or 3 foot wide at the further end. I had considered a conventional fence panel as a privacy screen, but the uncertain nature of this retaining wall’s construction & difficult access via the old Forsythia hedge makes this rather unpredictable.

    I’d appreciate opinions on the above, or new ones, on how to recreate privacy in this short awkward stretch.
     
  2. Lolimac

    Lolimac Guest

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    I think I'd go for the English Laurel as a reasonably quick fix they seem to grow anywhere:dbgrtmb:
     
  3. Roy22

    Roy22 Apprentice Gardener

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    Thanks for the reply. Monty Don said 'Avoid the poisonous, aggressively invasive cherry laurel, and go for the beautiful Portuguese variety'; Another USA website declared planting English Laurel 'An act of war against your neighbours'!

    Now I'm no gardening expert, so how much of a problem might it be? Would it be a quick fix but trouble in future?
     
  4. Lolimac

    Lolimac Guest

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    I don't think so Roy,it's just a case of keeping it in check as you'd do with any hedge:thumbsup:
     
  5. Kristen

    Kristen Under gardener

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    I've never had a problem with Cherry Laurel (which is the one that most people would think of as "Laurel"). It grows wide, so keeping it narrow (in a hedge) is the biggest challenge, but I've never had it march off across the countryside ...

    Its a thug, similarly to Leylandii etc., but it will grow quickly, makes a nice evergreen hedge, and if clipped regularly will be absolutely fine.

    In fact even if not clipped regularly, but "Murdered" periodically, it will be fine (do one side, leave it a year or two until it has recovered fully, and then do the other side).

    @shiney had some tree surgeons in to murder his recently - there's a thread on it someone on this forum. Reduced from 12' high and 12' wide to 6' high and 4' wide ... or something like that.

    And ignore the poisonous thing too - well, don't "ignore" it :heehee:, but beware that many/most of the plants in your garden are "poisonous", but that anyone, or a pet, dying from eating them is incredibly rare. Poisonous plants, in the garden, aren't THAT poisonous, and usually taste foul so people / animals don't make a meal of them. Apple Pips have Arsenic in them ... that doesn't kill many people either (but deliberate suicide has happened, and you would have to eat an AWFUL lot of them) and as a kid I was far more worried that an Apple Tree would grow in my stomach!!

    There I am ... rabbiting on again!!!
     
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    • shiney

      shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

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      Laurel is not a problem. I'm assuming that what you call 'English Laurel' (I guess you're on the North American continent but apologise if I'm wrong :)) is Prunus laurocerasus, http://www.rhs.org.uk/Plants/13977/Cherry-laurel/Details

      I have a 100ft long laurel hedge in the back garden that's 60 years old. Both my neighbour and myself cut it regularly (once or twice a year) with power cutters and there's no problem with it. All our neighbours have laurel hedges and they cut them with power cutters as well :blue thumb:

      When we moved in, over 40 years ago, it was 30ft high and 25ft wide and I took a chainsaw to it. Now we keep it eight foot high and it's only 3ft wide and looks pretty good.

      The hedge Kristen was referring to is in our front garden. We reduced that but were keeping it at 14ft high and 8ft wide and 70ft long and it looked very good. The trouble was that it became too much for me to keep under control as I'm approaching my dotage. :old: :heehee:

      So, two years ago I reduced the height to 10ft but decided last year that I hadn't done enough. Last April (2013) I made the decision that it need cutting back much further and that I needed someone younger and fitter to do the work. The tree surgeons came in and reduced it to about 6ft high and 4ft wide with this result.
      P1160184.JPG

      P1160196.JPG

      One year later it looks like this
      P1200258.JPG

      I shall be cutting it within the next week or so and it will look almost as good as new.

      As to the poisonous aspect - there's really no problem with it. Babies and pets will only try tasting it once, and spit it out immediately. Absolutely no danger there. They do contain traces of cyanogenic glycosides (as does the wood and berries) but is not dangerous in comparison to many common garden plants. The tree surgeons weren't wearing any masks but wore ear protectors and hard hats. If they had thought it was a danger they would have worn face masks as well.

      If you're burning a lot of it (which you would never have if you're trimming regularly) you should take the natural precaution of standing upwind. :) The leaves contain quite a high proportion of oils so they burning very easily. I use them to help get the bonfire going. The dry leaves combust immediately.

      I normally recommend not to use the leaves as a mulch or in compost. I have no scientific reason for it but practical ones. The leaves, left on the surface, could act like a mulch but they tend to just go dry and not rot and seem to be a good habitat for snails! I don't use them in compost because they take too long to rot down. The argument that some people make for not using them for compost is that they say they are poisonous but it doesn't seem to stop plants growing quite happily in the wild.

      Conclusion: it's a good hedging choice, fast growing, easy to keep trimmed regularly and no problem with the clippings.
       
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      • Kristen

        Kristen Under gardener

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        :goodpost:


        :scratch: :snork:
         
      • shiney

        shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

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        Now, now, Kristen, we'll have none of that! :nonofinger: :nonofinger: I'll start getting a complex. :lunapic 130165696578242 5:
         
      • Kristen

        Kristen Under gardener

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        :heehee:
         
      • shiney

        shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

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      • Roy22

        Roy22 Apprentice Gardener

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        Dear Kristen & shiney,

        Many thanks to you both for your thorough & well informed replies. I do feel reassured reading them!

        To answer you both at once: No I'm not North American continent, I'm Midlands! Any oddities in my naming is a combination of inexperience & surfing websites all over the world. Yes it's Prunus laurocerasus.

        I wasn't worried Laurel re being poisonous to people especially, I was thinking more towards other plants, especially the Forsythia it would be growing amidst (assuming it will?) and the nearby Privet. I wasn't planning on burning it (not really an option with my Privet hedges) though it's interesting to know I could do given precautions. If the neighbours take to chomping on it, that could solve two problems at once. ;)

        I'm a reluctant gardener, having bitten off more than I could chew long ago when I unwisely took on a large mature garden with zero experience whilst not even middle aged; my gardening style is therefore 'Military', having long ago abandoned learning different types of pruning cut & their timing, and realised that it was 'kill or be killed' with a large area of mature tree, shrubs & hedges that almost laugh at you after a day spent hacking them back.

        Trimming both hedges (40 metres length either side, about 7ft tall and 5 or 6ft wide in places) is now my sole duty, having ended up with neighbours both sides who will not touch them: one neighbour too old too care (if he ever did); the other younger ones rather keener on chilling out than sweating.

        So the hole openened up by the fence panel's removal is an unwelcome extra problem. The younger neighbours will certainly never touch their side of any Laurel I may plant, though I can trim my side and top it off, electric trimmers not pruning note. I'm taking from the lovely pictures that this will be OK, treating it like Privet and cutting it start/mid and end of the April to September period?

        I'd like to put some plants in very soon, are 2 to 3 ft wise for better/faster screening, or would you use the ones under 2 ft? What planting density would you recommend? I'm no gardener but do try to give things like this a head start, e.g. with Privet plants 2 years ago clearing the ground of stones etc, a little bonemeal mixed deep down below, 'Rootgrow' fungal powder under each plant, weekly watering & feeding. If there's any other advice on timing or preparation please let me have it. I just want the things to grow well & quickly.
         
      • shiney

        shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

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        It's much better to plant laurel in the autumn so that they are likely to get rained on. Planting now is OK but may need you to water frequently if it doesn't rain.

        2 t0 3ft is OK but I'd not want to go any bigger as they may take longer to get themselves established, and may need more looking after. No need to clear stones (the roots will be quite happy growing past them as long as the stones are making a solid barrier) as long as you dig nice holes for the plants and fill them with soil and compost. The compost will help retain moisture.

        I would not add much in the way of feed as I'd be inclined to want the plants to put their effort into establishing their roots as opposed to their leaf structure. Once the plants are well established 12-18 months you should start feeding them. I don't know whether others would agree but that's the way I would do it.

        They may not appear to be doing all that much growing whilst the roots are establishing but then they will start to make good progress.

        When the hedge has grown to where you want it, with occasional trimming to help promote thicker growth, you don't need to worry what the neighbours do to their side. Just cut your side and keep the top trimmed.

        Re poisonous plants: almost all garden plants will have no effect on each other. The 'poison' terminology is usually a reference to ingesting parts of the plant or, in some cases, getting the sap on your skin. Hellebores have sap that can be an extreme irritant to the skin so always wear gloves when cutting them back (but it doesn't stop them being one of the most popular plants). They're also poisonous to animals if they eat any of them but cats tend to know what's bad for them and dogs learn very quickly.
         
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        • Sheal

          Sheal Total Gardener

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          There's also Escallonia, it's evergreen and thrives in dry free draining soil. It has a smell of citrus when cut. :)

          012.JPG

          010.JPG
           
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          • Kristen

            Kristen Under gardener

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            Only other point to add to @shiney's growing suggestions is to make sure the area under the plants is kept free of weeds / grass. I would put down some woven (that's important - e.g. Mypex or equivalent, UV stabilised) weed suppressing membrane - that will deter weed growth, and keep moisture in.
             
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            • Roy22

              Roy22 Apprentice Gardener

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              Sorry lost my reply somewhere, an annoying rule about having to 'Like' first before being allowed to post then a Save Draft option that doesn't offer to load it again later!

              To be brief, can I use architectural fabric instead of the Mylex brand stuff? Did you mean to say the stones must not form a solid barrier? And can I trim the Laurel at similar times to Privet without injuring it?

              Thanks for the excellent advice,

              Roy22.
               
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