Rotovating!

Discussion in 'Garden Projects and DIY' started by nikirushka, Aug 7, 2015.

  1. nikirushka

    nikirushka Gardener

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    Wasn't sure where to put this as it spanned a few categories so it's in here!

    I am removing my lawn and re-seeding with what most people would think is a weed mix (going for clover/small plantain/lawn daisies and a couple other things, all low-grow/low-mow stuff). But first, of course, I have to remove the lawn.

    I have been very lucky to discover that a friend has a rotovator that I can pinch to get it done, but having never rotovated, I'm not sure where to start!

    I guess the main question is, does the lawn need to be short for the rotovator to do its work or can I just go at it as is? It is almost full-grown, so between 10" and 15" long (I've given up trying to mow it altogether as I just cannot keep on top of it, hence getting rid). Presumably I'll have to go over it all and remove the grass after it's all been done, but that's fine. I'm just hoping I won't have to try and mow it short first!

    Anything else I need to know before I crack on with it?
     
  2. Sheal

    Sheal Total Gardener

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    The turf can be turned over by the rotovator and the grass will rot down if you are prepared to wait. The process will take a lot longer if you leave the grass long so I would either strim or mow it as short as possible first.
     
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    • Scrungee

      Scrungee Well known for it

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      I regularly rotovate disused, overgrown plots, some of which have reverted to grassland.

      If you leave the grass uncut it will wrap around the rotovator tines and impede cultivation, plus leave rotting vegetation in the soil you wish to seed. I always strim and rake before starting. You will also need to keep raking 00's of little clumps of grass roots off when you start getting a tilth, and do this a few times or they will re-sprout.

      A lawn will not have been cultivated in many a year and you might find it hard going, especially at with a small machine (what hp is it?) and at this time of year when a rotovator can simply bounce off a dry, compact surface (I have clay soil that bakes in summer and it's hard going with a 3.6 hp machine with 2 forward gears) You might wish to water beforehand to soften the ground. Just keep going over it at 90 degrees to last rotovating and you will get down deeper and deeper and reduce to a decent tilth.
       
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        Last edited: Aug 8, 2015
      • nikirushka

        nikirushka Gardener

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        Thanks, I guess I'd best chug some painkillers and get mowing then...

        Not sure what hp it is but my soil is VERY easy going - sandy and very soft, super easy to dig when it's dry so I'm not worried on that front. I think roots will be my main challenge - I've got three fruit trees in the lawn at the back! Might have to de-turf round those by hand.
         
      • Scrungee

        Scrungee Well known for it

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        Their roots will extend underground to about the same amount as the branches above ground and rotovating will damage their roots.
         
      • nikirushka

        nikirushka Gardener

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        That's fine, I'll do round those by hand, not a problem :) The grass round them is easier to dig anyhoo, not as robust as the rest of the lawn (it's got three sort of areas with different species dominating each).
         
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