Soil short of something - worth doing tests or just chuck lots of manure at it!

We bought the house 3 years ago but had a baby 2 years ago and so I'm only just starting to get to grips with it now. The previous owners were there 3 years and weren't gardeners (ie. they hacked back things that got in the way and mowed the lawn when they had visitors coming).

Many of the plants that are there are flourishing, but last year some were starting to loose their colour (there's a vine with some leaves that turned almost white between the ribs, and others looking much more yellow than they should have) so I'm figuring the soil is short of at least one nutrient.

So, is it worth trying to test the soil and pin-point what's missing so I can treat accordingly? If so, how comprehensive a kit would I need? Most of the ones I've seen have only been available on line and only test for 3 or 4 things (pH, N, P, K) - I couldn't find one that would look for trace elements, or is that going OTT?. Or should I just chuck lots of well rotted manure into it on the grounds that will solve many problems and will also help improve the soil quality over time?

thanks

 

Hi Tangle

Like you, I took over a very neglected garden two years ago and I'm rehabilitating it. Shortly after I moved in, I carried out soil tests in several places using a basic kit that was supposed to tell me whether it was acid or alkaline and any major deficiences e.g. nitrogen. The results were, er, "inconclusive" and none of my samples really matched the specimen colours on the card that came with the kit.

So I've reverted to what I've always done - digging the soil over repeatedly and adding compost, manure and organic fertiliser. I've dug out or transplanted all existing shrubs and perennials and I've experimented with my own old favourites in different places. I've already moved some of my early plantings to try them in better positions.

I think your approach of adding lots of organic matter and improving soil over time is a good, pragmatic way to proceed. If the previous owners weren't into gardening, you can expect the soil to be hungry and to need general feeding. If any plants start to show up specific deficiencies after that, you can add the appropriate elements.

It all takes time. I'm giving myself five years to get the garden up to standard. By then, I hope to have some decent soil in between the flints!

Good luck.

 

It is never a bad thing to add manure or compost to the soil.

It's a kind of cure-all.

You say it's short of something-what gives you that impression? What are the clues?

 

Flinty - I feel put to shame! At the moment I'm very much working around the things I think I want to keep and potting up the excess to give away (and I'm amazed at how much comes into that category - how many iceberg plants does one small garden need?) (btw, I sympathise with the flints. I also seem to have a lot of half bricks. Why?????)

Claire - last summer there were a number of plants that started to loose the greeness of their foliage way before they should have turned for autmn. The ones that stick in my mind were some hellebores (which went greeny-yellow), an hibiscus (which went very pale yellow/cream) and a vine (where some of the leaves went almost white). In both the hibiscus and the vine the discoloration started away from the veins and spread until the only green remaining was the veins themselves.

I've just finished putting 6 sacks of manure on, but have a nasty feeling I should be adding more. Trouble is the beds are now all overflowing and there are too many roots for me to dig it in very well. Then again, I guess anything is better than nothing.

 

Sounds like chlorosis, iron deficiency. Teabags have been recommended here by a member for this. I would consider applying sequestrine-but for a large area that can work out pricey. Sulphate of iron and epsom salts from Wilkinsons works out a good price.

 

"The results were, er, "inconclusive" and none of my samples really matched the specimen colours on the card that came with the kit."

That is SO true. I don't have any time for those cheapie kits for just that reason. Looking around and seeing what else grows nearby would be my finger-in-air test! I wonder if there is a straight forward, reasonably priced, send-a-sample-away-for-analysis service?

"Trouble is the beds are now all overflowing and there are too many roots for me to dig it in very well"

Laving it on the surface should be fine. It will act as a mulch (keeping moisture in, and weeds down) and the worms will drag it into the soil over time etc. Only real risk is that it dries out and the wind blows it about, which will make a mess and be a nuisance.

 

OK - how do I differentiate between iron and magnesium deficiencies? Or does it not matter and I should just treat for both? Are there any contra-indications or risks to treating either condition? And what kind of dosage should I use (of iron sulphate and epsom salts - I don't think we drink enough tea to make a significant difference that way)?

Kristen - I won't worry too much then . Although Having tried to dig it in I do wonder if another part of the problem is that the soil has got fairly compacted in places. The more I manage the better, I guess.

 

Quite rightly you mention that plants are chlorotic when there are deficiencies of a few minerals.


The brand you get has the measurements you need on the box, I have a good size garden and use a small box of each per year, then watch out for any signs one way or another. If there isn't a discernable improvement on a particular plant I would then use sequestrine.

But you really can't beat manure and compost for improving the soil. I would do that first, and last and use the chemical fertilizers as a last resort or if a plant is looking particularly yellow.

 

Not sure of how helpful this is I spotted it on google

http://www.hbci.com/~wenonah/min-def/list.htm

 

Compaction is a condition that needs to be corrected to help your soil become better, quicker. Most of my garden was so compacted, I had to use a pick axe to break it up. I don't think it had been dug for about 20 years. I was amazed at how dry the soil was a little way down, despite the recent wet summers. And there were very few worms.

So, if you don't already have one, may I suggest the acquisition of a pick axe? They're really useful, not just for breaking up concrete-like clay but also for levering out stubborn roots, lifting paving slabs, etc.