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Wickes Multi-Purpose vs Westland John Innes

Discussion in 'Compost, Fertilisers & Recycling' started by JWK, Mar 11, 2012.

  1. JWK

    JWK Gardener Staff Member

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    I've run a little experiment the past month comparing Wickes Multi-Purpose compost against Westland John Innes for tomato seedlings. It's not very scientific and I only did it to see if it's really worth spending three times the amount for John Innes.

    The tomato seeds were sown on 4th Feb and pricked out and potted on as usual.

    The photos below show the two Wickes M.P. plants on the left, which are etoliated (tall, spindly and lighter green) than the stubbier stronger pair grown in the John Innes on the right.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    When I knocked the plants out of their pots the root systems on the two John Innes plants were much stronger.

    So the John Innes gives much better results. I'm thinking it's because the John Innes has more nutriments added, but there is no specific information on either product to back that up. Maybe adding a little liquid feed to the Wickes might give the same results.

    Going by my results if I was only growing a few seeds this year I would only use John Innes, but as I've got quite a lot to sow I can't afford to use John Innes all the time. So I'm using John Innes for seedlings that need a faster start, and Wickes for the run of the mill bedding plants.
     
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    • Kristen

      Kristen Under gardener

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      Very useful John, thanks.

      But why would the Wicks compost ones be more "drawn" ? More nutrients wouldn't make them more stocky would it? The difference to me has the hallmarks of more light for the JI and less light for the Wickes (I'm sure they were the same in your test, just saying that's how they "look" to me)
       
    • ARMANDII

      ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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      I would guess it's would have to do with the ratio and availability of the Nitrogen, Phosphates, and Potash. One compost might be "giving it up" more in balance than the other:scratch:
       
    • JWK

      JWK Gardener Staff Member

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      Krsiten, yes they were all treated equally in terms of light.

      Armandii, I think your onto the reason there. I will have to do a bit of further research when I get time.
       
    • Kristen

      Kristen Under gardener

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      Still not getting this. If JI had more available nitrogen the plant would be taller (and more green), rather than more stocky?

      Or are you saying that Wickes has more Nitrogen therefore taller? (But if so why is it lighter green?)

      Maybe I'm seeing it differently to you guys ... I'll take my Rose-tinted specs off if you like? !!
       
    • ARMANDII

      ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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      No, just saying the balance of the compost giving up the nutrients could be out of balance. If the compost was giving up less phosphate or potash, or both, it's logical that the plant might end up looking like it's taken up too much nitrogen. I have learnt that not all composts do what they say on the can. Keep your rose tinted glasses on:biggrin:
       
    • Kristen

      Kristen Under gardener

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      I'm shcocked ... but, yeah, that's my take too.

      If the [taller] plant took up more Nitrogen (and lets assume less P & K than it would like) wouldn't that still make the foliage darker green? I put N on my lawn (and I mean JUST N!!) and it turns it such a dark green that it's almost black!

      Maybe the Wickes is "Normal" and the JI is "enhanced" then.

      I was reading today about slow-release fertilizers for the bedding plant trade that will keep plants more stocky - I'll see if I can find what "flow" of nutrients they use to cause that.
       
    • Kristen

      Kristen Under gardener

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      Here we go:


      Osmocote Exact with an extra high potassium level is ideal for crops in which compact growth is required (e.g. perennials and early-flowering crops), or for situations in which the water given contains high levels of nitrogen.
      http://www.scottsprofessional.com/en/osmocote-exact.html

      This makes sense to me. So if there is more "K" in the JI then that could make for more stocky plants. of course you aren't supposed to give Tomatoes any K until the first truss has set, but I'll gloss over that ... :D :D :D
       
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      • ARMANDII

        ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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        Well, it's obvious that not all composts in the same class perform the same for various reasons, if they did we'd get identical results. It could be that the level and balance of nutrients aren't quite what they say on the bag. Or, that the compost isn't releasing the nutrients in a balanced way even though it has the correct balance.:biggrin:
         
      • shiney

        shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

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        John, thanks for the trial.

        Slightly as an aside. We add Osmocote to all our hanging baskets and patio pots when making them up but not when growing seeds or potting up bedding plants. We do add a little when planting out.
         
      • Scrungee

        Scrungee Well known for it

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        John - have you been top or bottom watering those toms?
         
      • Kristen

        Kristen Under gardener

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      • JWK

        JWK Gardener Staff Member

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        Bottom watered whilst they were seedlings, then top watered when potted on.


        Prompted by the other thread about Wickes compost I double checked my stock, it was last years 75 litre bags even though I bought it recently. Just been over to Wickes in case they still had the older stuff but it's all gone :dunno: , now they only have 70 litre bags which is more expensive plus the compost is much worse to look at, all twiggy.

        Well that's made my experiment a waste of time, I don't have space under my grow lights to start again using this new formula Wickes compost. Personally I'm not going to risk using this new Wickes compost for seed sowing, it looks too poor.
         
      • Scrungee

        Scrungee Well known for it

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        It's just that I'm sure I can remember reading somewhere about watering different composts and some responding better to bottom watering, but my memory of it is vague and it could well have been a load of tosh, and it's all hypothetical now now with the demise of the good old Wickes compost - but could different moisture (& air?) levels in the two composts have caused different growth rates?


        P.S. I've now totally opted out on buying Wickes compost, however cheap it is.
         
      • Kristen

        Kristen Under gardener

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        EDIT: posted completely the wrong product :( Have changed it now.

        You sowing direct in modules John? I am a big fan of my little 1/4 sized seed trays, and then prick out. I use top quality JI seed sowing compost ... only the smallest bag they make each season, and I reuse it batch-to-batch and this year I'm reusing last year's too (but don't tell anyone about that bit!), 'coz the trays are only an inch-and-a-bit deep.

        [​IMG]
        £29.86 http://www.thegardensuperstore.co.uk/acatalog/info_G51.html
        (Picture shows old model, mini-trays and now more curvy style, as below)

        the replacement trays for that propagator are available on their own here:

        [​IMG]
        £1.39 http://www.thegardensuperstore.co.uk/acatalog/Garland-Mini-High-Dome-Plant-Propagator-G85.html
         
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