Lawns

I'm resurecting an old thread, but thought it would be good to update as these things take time.A year down the line we're very glad we went to the hassle of getting the hardcore dug out. Generally the lawn looks great, but the areas at the very edge where the soil depth was a bit lower have...

Look up liverwort. Caused by poor drainage and low light. You don’t need a weed killer for that, you need to improve the area for the grass plant.

It's only when I take the bag off to empty the clippings when I know if I've achieved anything or almost wasted my time.

Morning Temmy I wouldn’t overthink this at all. I would rake it and surrounding area and overseed. scatter the seed into the grass area too. I would use any general purpose seed and cover with soil and water. Keep it moist for a few weeks.It looks like a relatively open sunny area so...

new lawns are no match for weed killers since they do not have the same defenses as older grass. I was told by a gardener that Allow new grass at least three months before applying a weed killer treatment to the lawn. In that time, the new grass will have more established roots, will have...

Non, no matter what you feed the lawn will continue to suffer and will not improve as long as the dogs use the lawn.

Trefoil.Folks may I offer a few pointers when trying to identify plants. As in this instance. Foliage is three part/leaved, so tre being the three factor, folia =foliage,

Another thought @Linz - to give the kids the longest possible lawn eg for ball throwing, why not consider making the main axis of the lawn on an angle, so the beds form essentially triangles - one wider near the bottom of the garden, and the other wider near the top?

Thank you for the top advice as always.

The MO stuff works well if conditions suit it and it needs to go on heavy but the plus side is it eats away the moss. It will not solve the issue of moss returning though. I use an Eliet scarifier which has various blade setups. I tend to stick to a fixed blade which suits my line of work as...

That did cross my mind Freddy !

Good to know @Graham B garden centre seed is always very expensive and as you say a nice green fuzz there...

Weedol is one option. Make sure that you buy weedol for lawns. This will kill weeds but not the grass.Take advice from Liz the pot and feed a week or so before applying weed killer

Weedkill the bit you don't want. Then you can get turf, or buy some good seed. I've just reseeded our front lawn with low-maintenance seed from Grass Seed & Lawn Seeds - UK Supplier - GSS DIRECT LTD and it's sprouting really nicely after only 2 weeks. (Not an advert - I'm just really pleased...

Sounds like you’ve been decent and diffused the situation. Isn’t it a silly mad world we live in that “social” media has made most that use it less social, more isolated and caused so many other issues. Not to mention whatever’s coming from over exposure to using mobile phones and WiFi...

so when they came to pick ours up to take for serve, there was another one on the flat bed, it was yellow also. guess they are all yellow.

Most broad-leaved weeds can't be outcompeted though. Dandelions, daisies, buttercups and plantain are the usual culprits, but if your lawn is bad then you could also have nettle, dead nettle, bugle, field balm, mallow, various types of thistle, and so on. Mowing generally won't shift them once...

I've mowed twice a week since you posted this 6 weeks ago and the course grass has almost gone.

In my experience of using chicken pellets on the lawn they encouraged foxes, dogs, cats and the like to dig there. They also made the surface “unsittable” on until eventually broken down....not nice to play on etc.

A digger with driver would do that in less than 30 mins.