Climbing beans and peas - How do you support yours?

Discussion in 'Edible Gardening' started by Melinda, Mar 25, 2011.

  1. Melinda

    Melinda Gardener

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    I had wigwams last year - very pretty but I found harvesting slightly awkward-
    I was forever finding pods I'd missed, plus the beans out grew the structure by half a metre.

    This year Im thinking tradition and regimentation!

    So tell everyone how YOU do it! Regale us with tales of inventive string, cane and netting arrangements.


    [​IMG]
    (Not my garden I should hasten to add, I was just taken with the multiple support arrangements within such a small area. )

    I love how geeky I can get on here without being abused or laughed at!! :D
     
  2. Kristen

    Kristen Under gardener

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    For self-clinging Beans you have Wigwam, A-frame and X-frame.

    I think A-frame (which is probably the most popular) ahs smae drawbacks as Wigwam - beans-on-the-inside. But it is strong because the horizontal top-cane is against the spring of the vertical canes.

    X-frame, where the cross over is about 1/3rd of the way up, has the beans hanging on the outside. But it needs cross bracing at the top to make it sturdy.

    Make sure that canes tops are above eye-height too.
     
  3. Kristen

    Kristen Under gardener

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    For peas - horizontal strings between canes either side of the plants. They aren't self climbing, but I think this is easier to extract the dead plant from at the end of the season than large-mesh plastic pea/bean netting
     
  4. shiney

    shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

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    I prefer X frame :thumbsup:

    The lower A shape can be turned into a cloche - I just use bricks and clothes pegs to hold the plastic in place. It warms the ground up and, if you are not using weed supressant plastic on the ground, you can grow a quick crop in the middle.

    [​IMG]



    Beans hang on the outside making it easier for picking.

    [​IMG]


    We get strong winds off the field at the back and I find the X frame better for that as well.
    When we just used A frames a strong wind could catch the whole row and take it down (just like a fence gets caught by the wind.
    With the X frame the tops of the canes flex and bend with the wind. We occasionally get one or two canes breaking but never a whole section as we did with the A frame.

    I have not the slightest proof but I think that the bees also prefer the more open structure.

    If you have the space, and the ability, I think the best growing frame for beans is a hooped shape. Just like the shape of a polytunnel. You grow beans at either side and they grow up and over the top. If you make it a fairly open structure at the top the beans will grow down through it to make picking easier.
    I saw one like this once and, as the hoop was as wide as a large polytunnel the man grew crops on the inside. He was actually using it very similar to a tunnel - and very successfully.
     
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    • JWK

      JWK Gardener Staff Member

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      • JWK

        JWK Gardener Staff Member

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        This is my frame fully loaded:
        [​IMG]
         
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        • Melinda

          Melinda Gardener

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          Very pretty Shiney. I tempted to emulate you but fear I'll have my eye out 10 times over.

          Wow John- what can I say, your frame is a brute!

          [​IMG]
           
        • shiney

          shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

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          No one on here has ever called me pretty before :heehee: :loll: :loll: :loll:
           
        • Kristen

          Kristen Under gardener

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          Those canes are probably 8' tall? [and if not they could be] (Well, sorry, but I'm assuming you are not an Amazon?!!)

          My tops of the canes of my X-Frame are definitely way too high up to take an eye out (but it is a consideration, of course)
           
        • Phil A

          Phil A Guest

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          If I had the spare timber, I would build one of Johns Munty frames.

          (Is that taken from the word Muntin ? The thick timber with a groove in it that held the planks on a plank and muntin partition wall, common in the 16th Century, but now consigned to describe the plank in the centre of a timber door ? Or did you just make that up:heehee:)

          But I haven't so i've just built one of Shiney's x frames:dbgrtmb:

          Made it to fit the twinwall plastic sheets i've got, instant cloches, nice one.:happydance:
           
        • Phil A

          Phil A Guest

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          Do you have any problems with drooping (Oo er mrs:heehee:) under the weight of the crop ?

          I was wondering if there would be any ground in tying across the top of the X'es
           
        • Melinda

          Melinda Gardener

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          Ive just put in a series of X formation supports.

          I calls 'em my X-Men. Im thinking of copyrighting the phrase.
           
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          • JWK

            JWK Gardener Staff Member

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            Ziggy; Munty is the name of the poster in another place (not as good as this place obviously) :heehee:
             
          • shiney

            shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

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            Yes, it is a good idea :dbgrtmb:. I don't bother as they tend to do it on their own if I don't nip out the tops. They continue to grow upwards from the canes and then droop down and intertwine - not sure whether you really want this promiscuity in your garden :heehee:.

            I use 8ft canes so the tops are usually 6.5ft high. The canes are usually sturdy enough to withstand the independent droop :heehee: that there is on the outside rows. The inside rows intertwine and support each other.
             
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            • Kristen

              Kristen Under gardener

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              I do. I run horizontal canes along the top, and brace them side-to-side. The weight of the crop, coupled with a decent wind, can bring the whole lot down otherwise

              [​IMG]

              Not a thing of great beauty ... but it held my beans up :)
               

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