What should I plant here? ideas please

I'd try to remove the bulk of stony soil if possible and replace it with fresh topsoil plus some organic matter. You can buy bags of topsoil and Farmyard Manure or Soil Conditioner from good garden centres @Pepe.

 

Thanks for the advice. Can I just clarify my understanding. Is top soil essentially just a filler with barely any nutrients? so it goes on the top of the manure/compost?

or could I just buy some "nutrient rich top soil"? for example westland nutrient rich top soil from here Westland Nutrient Rich Top Soil - Soil | Westland | Garden Health and not bother with the manure or compost?

 

You need to incorporate both. If you are planning on planting shrubs, perennials and bulbs, I'd mix in a ratio of 50%:50%. Topsoil is the main ingredient for healthy root growth, it remains within the soil structure, while organic matter like manure and compost breaks down over time due to microbial activity, weathering and take up of the resulting elements by the plants' roots.

 

Thanks for the replies.

I actually think it might be a clay soil not sand as I originally thought as it does seem to be sticky when wet and clumps together when dry. Is adding horticultural grit to the compost and top soil recommended in order to stop the clay "clumping" together? so that drainage is improved?

 

It’s better to add organic matter to improve clay soil. @fairygirl has clay soil so may offer more advice if she sees this.

 

You'd need a big bank balance if you want to use grit to help with drainage @Pepe ! It's all very well for Monty Don to bang on about adding it - and showing barrowloads being tipped onto an area, but it really isn't feasible for most people. For that little stretch you have, you'd need a couple of ton bags - at least, to help the drainage. Grit is ideal for pots/containers, but it's hideously expensive for borders of any size.
Loads of organic matter added to the space is what you need to use, and yes - take the gravel off first. You can replace that later, or use it for top dressing pots.
If you dig down a little bit, and the ground's solid clay, it can help a little bit to break it up with a fork, and then pile on the manure/compost etc. The clay soil itself is usually a rich growing medium, so just lots of compost will help, but manure is also ideal for breaking the clay up well. If there are stables of any kind near you, ask them if you can have a couple of bags of manure. The well rotted stuff is what you want, but even a couple of bags of new stuff can be put aside for adding later.
You'll then need to be patient, because it isn't an instant fix, and the soil will all settle down, so don't be in a hurry to plant. Use the time to consider what you want to put in the space, and by autumn, it should be fine. That's a good time for planting shrubs/trees etc. The prep will pay dividends, because in future, that soil will be far easier to plant into, and what you do plant will thrive far better.
I have to say that when I read your post about sandy soil, yet the rowan had rotted, it didn't seem right, so it makes sense if it's clay soil you have.

 

No need to remove and replace stony soil. Stones in soil are completely natural, they help with drainage and soil temperature

 

Only if the stones are smaller though. Those look quite large to me.

 

We removed a lot of the soil and stones(not discarded it). The deeper we dug the larger quantities of compacted clay we came across. Some of which almost had the appearance of being rock like. We broke these up. Others which were too compacted we put in a separate pile to either get rid of or try breaking up later. Hardly any earth worms were seen which I assume means poor soil quality? We used a garden form to poke holes into the clay too. I've uploaded a picture of what it currently looks like. We either went a bit mad removing it? or have to keep going? We have bought some organic compost and top soil which we intend to mix up with the original soil. Hope that is ok?

This is the first time we've done anything like this so expect errors will be made. Thanks

 

You’ve done well and what you are planning will make a big difference. Once plants’ roots are happy in decent soil you should get healthy growth above. In future years you can help to keep your soil in good shape by adding compost and manure as a mulch on top of the soil, it will break down naturally and be incorporated by worms and other soil organisms. It’s worth putting the effort into this before planting anything. Clay soil is actually high in nutrients so it’s good for plants once it’s been improved .

 

We don't have masses of worms here either - it's quite common with heavy clay @Pepe, so don't worry about that.
Ideally, you'd add masses and masses of organic matter, then leave the site for 6 months or so to let it all work. Manure is by far the best addition. Leaf mould is also fantastic, but that's something you'd need to create yourself. You'll get plenty of info on that if you want to try it.
The other option, if you want to add lots to the site, is to create a small raised bed by putting an edging of some kind along the sides. It makes it easier to get planting done sooner as you can add the organic matter to a higher level.
There's no short cut with heavy clay, especially if you're in a wet area, as I discovered decades ago when I started gardening -often in pretty bare sites. It pays off in spades though [pardon the pun] because you'll have a great medium for planting. I've done this in every garden I've had.

You know you have heavy clay when you try to dig a hole to plant into and the amount you have looks like three times the size of the hole!

 

Once soil is prepared you can buy worms.

 

And go fishing while the ground settles prior to planting.

 

No need to buy worms. The soil will continue to improve just by adding organic matter. It'll become a very good growing medium within a few years.

 

Hi, thanks for your reply about the pyracantha. When you said the area on the right, do you mean the one nearest the fence? for reference the left hand side is about 11 feet long by 2 feet deep. Right side is 8 foot wide by 2 feet. So it is probably classed as a narrow bed.