Starting espalier on 3 or 4 y.o. tree

All instructions on starting an espalier seem to assume that you are starting with a young tree with few or no sidebranches or topgrowth. However I'm planting a pear (Comice on Quince A) that has one year old branches quite a bit higher than where I want the bottom layer of the espalier to be. The earlier (ie lower down) branches have all been previously pruned back to the main stem just leaving the healed scars.

If I cut off the entire top part of the tree down to 3 'scars' above where I want the first espalier layer to be, will new shoots form at or near these scars? Would nicking or notching help? The tree was bought bare rooted and the roots look quite good so presumably the tree wouldn't just die - presumably it would try and put out shoots somewhere?

 

Hi you dont have to cut out the top you could bend it over to slow the sap down as you do with climing roses , They might grow ???? I know my apples dont tend to re shoort lower down thats the problem , thats why most people start with such a young tree much easier to get the brances at the height you want them

Sorry if I sound all doom and gloom but you will be putting in a lot of time and effort so you want the best start you can



Spruce

 

Looking at my RHS book (which is based on a young plant, as you describe) you cut the plant just above the first "tier" of the Espallier. Then you train 3 branches (that break from the buds) into a fan - left, middle, and right.

In the Autumn you bend the Left and Right down to horizontal and tie to the wires, and you cut the middle, verticle, one just above the second tier (they say "leaving 18" with three good buds") and that forms the left, middle and right branches for the following year, which you again bend Left and Right down to the horizontal, and prune the top to get the next 3 branches - until you have your top tier.

My thinking is that if you have a more mature plant you COULD train the branches that you have (and maybe make 2, or perhaps even 3, tiers instantly, or you could cut the plant down to the first-tier, as if it was a one-year-old.

I reckon if you cut it down to 1st tier the fact that it is a larger plant, and with established root system, should mean it is able to grow vigorously, and thus you should get three really good branches to establish. But it will take the same number of years to train as a 1-year-old would.

I don't know the best answer, but I have the same problem (I've been given a Pear tree that is already a decent size), and my inclination is to cut it down to 1st tier level.

I wouldn't do that.

I presume you've planted it? if not don't delay (given that it is bare rooted)

In principle yes
[hr]
On re-reading that I have a plan B

Cut the leader just above the SECOND tier - i.e. you form the 1st tier straight away, taking the best two lower branches, but you then train 3 branches during this year to make the second tier this Autumn.

So you gain a year on the normal training timescale.

P.S. I'm thinking of grafting some different varieties to mine, once the tiers are formed (or "formative") so I can have 6 or so varieties on the one tree - which I believe is called a "family tree"

 

Hi Spruce - thanks for reply. Bending is an interesting idea, but I don't think it's going to work as the point where I would have to bend is 2-3cm diameter. As you say - easier to start with the right thing in the first place - a whip or maiden. (Blimey what dirty old man thought up these horticultural terms?).

 

The fella in the potting shed:D:D Would make a good thread :th_scifD36:
And you still have time to get a maiden or a whip

Spruce

 

Hi Kristen

Thanks for reply.

I'm trying most of what you suggest (commandeering existing side branches) on a couple of other trees, but the Comice - plus I've just noticed one of the apples I've got has the same issue - is just too high where the branches start ie it's somewhere between where I plan the 2nd and 3rd tiers. For the other trees though I don't think I'll be trying your plan B ('stealing' 2 years worth of development in one go) as I've tried this in the past and it never seems to work too successfully because the bottom tier suffers - a nurseryman explained to me that it's because the tree always favours getting the sap to the highest point possible**, so tier 2 would be competing - and winning - with tier 1. Hence the 'one tier per year' approach - it gives the tier time to develop a bit before having to compete with higher up tiers.

(**Inspired by this knowledge I'm going to try this year (on yet another espalier started a couple of years ago) untieing the first tier from the bottom wire and fixing each end of the branch HIGHER than tier 2 for a few months to see if it will get some more growth into the bottom tier.)

It's OK - they've been heeled in for a few weeks now and all seem quite happy.

In principle yes
[hr]

Well that's reassuring if I take the plunge and cut it right down to a stick with no apparent dormant buds. I may hedge my bets and with the second problem tree just dig a deeper hole and set it lower into the ground so that the existing bottom branches are at the right height for the wire (and taking care to keep the below ground-level parts of the trunk clear of soil so that there is no chance of rooting above the graft point).

PS Good luck with your grafting - it's been a bit hit and miss for me when I've tried.

 

Hadn't anticipated that, but it makes sense. I shall revert to Plan A :D

I'm planning something like the Apple Walk at East Ruston Old Vicarage ... but with some Nut Trees too ... which The Management! tells me will be called the "Fruit and Nut Walk"