How to Make "Moist, Well drained, Fertile" Soil?

Dandy's have a good reputation and that link is FREE DELIVERY

Thanks. I think I'll wait until Summer when the track is firmer, then the delivery can get straight into the garden

 

I'm still learning, however I 'think' that one needs to add topsoil from time to time?

most people just keep on adding compost and manure to their soil .... very good to increase the drainage etc, however ....

over several years, you will just be left with compost and very little soil (especially if you are planting items that have shallow roots which don't penetrate the soil/clay)

thats one of the reasons people have started using volcanic rock dust, which re-mineralises the ground ....

soil and compost are 2 totally different things

I may be wrong, but thats the way I see it

 

As I understand it Dim, the compost/manure one adds rots down eventually to nothing, the topsoil remains unless it dries out and is blown away, which it's not likely to do if one keeps a good level of compost and manure in the soil, then mulches on top to retain moisture.

Thats my take on it so far.

Steve...

 

found the article that I had saved on my favourites as regards adding compost/manure to soil ....
http://www.compostingvermont.org/pdf/compostamendedsoils.pdf

snip:

II.E.3 Estimating Compost Quantities
A final organic content of amended soil between 8 percent and 13 percent by soil weight is the target of the proposed soil amendment procedure.

The organic content of all existing subsoils exposed during site construction is expected to be less than one percent.

Compost typically has a 45-60% organic content, and is used to supply almost all of the organics to the soil profile. As a general rule of thumb, a 2 to 1 ratio of existing soil to compost, by loose volume, will achieve the desired organics level.

The optimum benefits are achieved by utilizing a 7/16- inch well-degraded compost (Kolsti, 1995). Acceptable compost criteria are suggested in Appendix A.

To maximize the benefits of compost incorporation, a minimum of the top six inches of soil should be amended. To determine the loose soil volume which is to be amended, the fluff factor discussed previously in Section IIA.3 must again be considered.

Assuming a fluff factor of 1.4, amending the top six inches of a soil will result in 8.4 inches of soil to be amended. The depth of amendment applied should therefore be 4.2 inches, or 13 cubic yards per 1000 square feet. In areas where tree root considerations or other natural features limit the maximum depth of incorporation, compost quantities should be
adjusted. For example, if feeder roots are observed at a 3.5-inch depth, only the top three inches of the soil should be amended. (This three inches corresponds to 2.1 inches of compost amendment.)

Calculations for the various amendment quantities can be kept simple by the following conversion: one inch of material spread over 1000 square feet is equivalent to about three cubic yards. If this one inch is a typical yard debris compost, with an organic content of 50% and bulk density of 1000 pounds per cubic yard, it will increase the organic content of the soil by approximately 2.5 to 3.5 percent when incorporated into the loose
eight-inch soil depth.

Assume a four-inch depth of native soil, with an organic content of five percent, is redistributed and incorporated throughout the site. Only a 2.5-inch depth of compost throughout the site would be necessary to get a final organic content between eight and thirteen percent, once both soils are incorporated. For precise calculations, volume, bulk density and organic content of both soil and compost are necessary.

Once the quantity of compost has been determined, the supplier should be contacted to establish compost availability and quality. Compost may need to be ordered two weeks in advance in the spring. On the other hand, ample quantities of compost are generally available in the fall, but they are frequently delivered before the product has completely
decomposed. If space is available at the site, having the compost delivered up to eight weeks in advance of use is suggested. The composting process can then be completed onsite by keeping the compost moist.
--------------------------
all very technical, way above my head, and I never fully read it .... I also think that they were specifically referring to preparing soil for turf ....

 

I've been reading up about High Brix Gardening (search google, it makes for interesting reading, and goes hand in hand with the Actively Aerated Compost tea that I am testing)

came accross this site:
http://highbrixhome.com/putting-compost-in-its-place.html

snip:

Before using compost ask yourself, "Does my soil show a need for additional potassium?" If not, you may be better to avoid it. Why? Because compost has one glaring deficiency—it is chronically short on calcium and will imbalance the calcium to potassium ratio of soils in short order.​

and another snip:

Misconception: It is virtually impossible to over apply compost because compost is not high analysis or burning.

Truth: Compost is a very potent supplier of potassium and can very quickly imbalance a soil's calcium to potassium ratio resulting in a decline of nutrient density.

Misconception: Compost should be applied regularly.

Truth: Compost should be applied when the soil needs it.

Misconception: Compost is really all an organic gardener needs.
Truth: Soil needs what it needs—not just what compost supplies.

Misconception: Compost is far superior to all other fertilizers and soil amendments.
Truth: Compost is a specific tool for a specific job. Other tools are also required to bring a soil to full remineralization.

Since the focus is on producing foods of the highest nutrient density i.e. destination, and not on the route to take i.e. being organic, accusations have been made of being against compost. This is not true. Compost has a place, but only when it is needed. Here are a few applications of compost where its’ use really excels.
What’s Good About Compost?

1) Compost recycles nutrients back into the carbon cycle and food chain.

2) Compost is excellent when combined with rock powders because it assists in digesting them.

3) Compost can be used as a valuable source of P & K to replace the need to purchase expensive commercial fertilizers. I suggest using 3-4 tons per acre if this is the goal.

4) Compost is extremely valuable for jumpstarting a poor soil when combined with other needed minerals.