'Push' mower

I have just been given a second hand Qualcast Panther 30 hand mower. I am delighted with it but would appreciate some hints/tips on how to do the edges. I seem to get a two inch wide strip of long grass left at each side of the lawn -is this common to most hand mowers? Also, will I need to sharpen it - if so, how do I do that?
Thanks

 

Afraid you'll have to either get a small strimmer, or edge the lawns with bricks/stone/other at soil level so that the mower can run over them. Stops you having to cut the edges as well so if you can do this you will save time in the long run.

If you want a strimmer a small electric thing will do. I used to love the rechargeable Ryobi things but have now gone to Stihl 2 strokes - easier to deal with.

As far as sharpening goes you will need to get it done professionally. A local lawn mower centre should do it- or point you to someone who can. You cannot do this with a file at home, it needs expensive rigs to grind the blades and cutter bar accurately. Shouldn't need doing much though if you DONT MOW STONES!! :D

 

Depending on the area of grass you have to deal with, Monkshood, you may find that using edging shears is ok. A bit wearing on the arms if you have lots, though! :rolleyes:
If you have grass directly edging on to a concrete or paved path, then the giant pizza slicer is a good move - I love it!
http://www.scottsofstow.co.uk/ProductDetails.aspx?language=en-GB&product=1021962&catName=GeneralTools

 

I also have a panther, which I use very occasionally. You can mow the edge, if you let one wheel go over it, but hold the machine horizental to prevent the blades catching - me I just turn the mower h ead on to the missed edge and go back and forward up the lawn - its light enough to bounce it from the bit you cut to the next bit.

One of the reasons I use my electric black and decker - even though the panther is light and easy to use on my small lawn, it is fiddly to do the edges - so makes it more of a chore.

 

Monkshood
Sharpening hand mowers isn't difficult if you are handy with simple tools. You need to back lap the blades which involves turning them backwards and using grinding paste between the blades and bottom plate. If you want to try it you'll need grinding paste which you'll get either from a lapidary supplier or as valve grinding paste from an automobile tools supplier.
Here's a link which explains the basic process, there may be better ones if you "Google".
I used to sharpen our old hand mower using lapidary grit ((carborundom (sp?)))paste and it worked a treat.

http://www.reelmowers.info/

 

We always use a small angle grinder which means 30 seconds on each blade! Never fails but you have to have a light touch or no blades!

 

To sharpen a cyclinder mower correctly, the trailing edge of the blade should be very slighly nearer to the axis than the leading edge (the same as a scissor blade, after all it is only a variation of scissors). It was possible about 50 years ago to buy a sharpening stone for a cylinder mower, but these days they prefer you to buy a new one and throw the old one out. You could buy a "slip stone" from an engineers stores (it is a very small carborundum stone).