Acer Tree: Help Please

Hi All

We have an Acer Tree which we’ve he for around 6 months. It was originally doing well.

However. In this last few weeks it’s took a turn for the worst.

It’s leafs on one side are curling up and branches on this same side look bare

The Tree itself is not in direct sunlight most of the day but has lots of access to light. It gets direct sun from about 5pm so not in major heat. It is also more or less shielded from wind, but not always

It has a big pot (around 3-4 times). It’s an old Half Whiskey barrel.

I used Ericaceous Compost and have and have mulched the top, leaving a gap around the trunk

Last week, I took it out to inspect the roots. They were strong if not a little “balled up in compost” so I gently broke them loose a little before re-airing the compost

Strangely, the side that is bare is that which is facing the house

I would greatly appreciate any advice? I can’t figure out how to upload images

 

My first thoughts
- have you been watering it?
- Whereabouts are you?
X Has there been heat bouncing off the house walls, cooking one side of the plant?

Acers don’t like to dry out. They can also be stressed, especially when newly planted.

Depending where you are in the country, it may have been stressed by the heatwave, and with an unestablished root system, would have struggled...

 

Watering: Yeah, it’s been watered regularly. And we have a water detector which showed it to be at a decent level. May be an area to revisit though as I when checking the roots and gently removing stick compost, there was a lot of it. So I guess it may not be getting through

Location: Yorkshire, UK. Heat has been bad, but not as bad as other places in Europe. This was happening before the heat wave

Heat Bouncing: Hmm... possibly. But my wife’s Nans husband who has many big Acers said it was a good location

Unestablished Root System: How can I make this better? It is a sizeable system, but I’d like it to spread out more. It currently uses about 1/4 of the available space

 

Its beacuse its a young plant its just not tough enough to stand extremes in temperatures , Last week, I took it out to inspect the roots. They were strong if not a little “balled up in compost” so I gently broke them loose a little before re-airing the compostdont
I dont mean to be rude but taking out to check roots is not the right thing to do best just keep watered and leave be ... what variety is it ?
Spruce

 

Stephen1986, hello

Sian is correct in her analysis

Not a good time to break up the compost or “re air” it. Your acer won’t like that at all.

You said “ericaceous” compost but is it a soil based one? A John innes compost? Shrubs, trees etc will not like ericaceous mpc....it dries out too quickly.

Leave it until the autumn and keep it well watered. Then repot

 

OK. I guess moving into a smaller pot in a different area is out then?

I don’t think I mentioned, it’s a young one (I think) but not small. It’s about 4ft

I have kept watering and it seems to be really struggling and don’t know what to do as it hasn’t worked so far

It’s a Japanese Maple

I’ve worked out how to add photos so attached a few

 

Does anyone think this may have been planted a little too high in the pot or is it just me? Could it be that the roots near the top have been getting too much sun?

Nick

 

I guess a key question, is this too far gone or could it survive with the right care?

 

Thanks for the photos, @Stephen1986 , they really help.

To me, it looks as I suspected, a stressed plant, possibly/probably not getting enough water.

What is the compost you have used? There seems to be a lot of bark, or wood chips, in it? This will make the compost very open, and free-draining. It will also be relatively low in nutrients.

As @Nikolaos has pointed out, the soil level of the tub is very near the half-circle cut in the lip of the barrel. So when you water, if it doesn’t go into the compost straight away, it will run out. So you might be getting the surface of the compost wet, but underneath it remains dry.

I never give up on a plant, if it’s still trying! You have at least half of the little tree with non-crispy leaves, so it’s got a chance!

I would get myself a large watering can of water, pull up a chair, and prepare to get the water deep into the pot. Create a small indentation in the compost halfway between the stem and the edge, by gently moving it to the side. Then trickle a little puddle of water into your little pit, no more than 2/3 up. This may be no more than a tablespoon of water... Wait... when it has all sunk away, repeat. And repeat, and repeat.... After a few refills, you may find that it is going in quicker. That’s because the compost underneath is starting to rehydrate. But patience, patience. There are no prizes for emptying the can quickly, with the water flowing over the surface of the compost, and running down the inside of the barrel.

I hope this doesn’t sound patronising - but so many people splash water on the surface. It runs off, down the inside of the pot, and out of the drainage holes, without getting near any of the roots. There’s a reason hubby and I were staggering around the garden yesterday evening, carrying full watering cans, in 40+ degrees heat, before the thunderstorms came. (Apart from to maintain our “barmy Brits” reputation!). We knew that without wetting the surface fully, all the rain would run off straight into the brook.

 

Thank you all.

It was Ericaceous compost. I can’t remember the brand. How Alkaline / Acidic should it be? I’ve heard conflicting views

So I have a few actions:

- Compost: Fill-up compost a little bit more, replacing some mulch even if the mulch is “mounded”. Possibly take some out. Deeper root coverage been key
- Water, Water, Water: But do it in the right way. If I’ve understood correctly, create a few small holes between the trunk and the edge of roughly the root ball in a gentle way. Gradually fill with water until absorbed. Repeat
- Patience: Nurture it. Don’t rush it

Thank you... I hope you all have helped me save a tree

 

Glad you checked back!

Re watering. Not several holes, but one small indentation, and this in the compost, not just pulling back the mulch. There is a risk of damaging any surface roots, so you don’t want to do this in a number of places. Just the one indentation, that you slowly, maybe even over 30 mins or so, pour a full watering can into. You may need a cuppa/beer at your side, to keep your hydration levels up! (If you have used ericaceous compost, it is probably peat-based. Once peat dries out, it is very hard to rehydrate.) I would not be surprised when you do this, that the barrel takes the whole watering can of water, without water coming out of the bottom.
(If the water runs out straight away, even with this trickle-water method, then let us know!)

Personally, I would then place an attractive stone/pebble in the indentation, and repeat the exercise once a week.

Silly question, but you’re not in a hard-water area, are you? Limescale forming in your kettle, showing as a white deposit?

 

So basically any John Innes ericaceous mix is soil-based, correct?

Nick

 

Yes soil based Nikalaos. Much heavier too so will help stabilise talk plantings in pots

 

All makes sense. Thanks again, I appreciate the guidance

We’re not in a hard water area here so that part should be OK

 

Hi the postion the pot is in too much strong sun and wind , move it to a shadey spot which will help and out of the wind ... The reason I asked which variety as the smaller leaves ones are more prone to sun and wind scortch .... I think should be fine .

Spruce