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Digging. Rotavating. Cultavating. Ploughing

Discussion in 'Gardening Discussions' started by Mike Allen, Mar 1, 2020.

  1. Mike Allen

    Mike Allen Total Gardener

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    Here on Gardeners Corner, we have a mix of keen gardeners. Some have estate sized gardens others a postage stamp size garden, some just a concrete back yard. So perhaps we can include the plot, the allottment.

    So when the seasonal time comes around that calls for the soil to be turned over, manure, compost or artificial fertalizers added. How do we go about it. I have in mind, a recent TV Country File edition, where a farmer gave up plouing the firld and simply re-sowed using the drill method. On a much larger scale. Scientific memos state that in the USA, due to intensive ploughing etc, much of the top soil is actually being blown away by high winds. Please give it a thought. How do you cultivate your garden and why?
     
  2. shiney

    shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

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    I used to rotavate my veg plot each year but can no longer manage that - so we now have help with the heavier work and it is dug by hand. I always dug in compost the same day as rotavating by just spreading it on the top and running the rotavator over it. Now a similar thing is done by fork.

    For the last 12 years I have covered most of the veg plot with porous membrane and grow most of the veggies through it. Some can't be done that way so are left uncovered. This works exceptionally well. The membrane is rolled back (can't be done in windy weather), soil dug and compost spread and then it is rolled back into place.

    It stops the ground from getting too saturated during wet weather.
    Stops it from drying out from evaporation during hot weather.
    Warms the soil up for earlier planting.
    Doesn't get muddy so I can harvest and work on the crops cleanly during the wettest of weathers.
    Doesn't need weeding throughout the whole of the growing season.

    This same membrane has been down for the twelve years. I have another area like this and a similar size for crops that don't work well in those situations - mainly roots crops.

    P1410400.JPG

    There is a large site, about an acre, a couple of miles away where they use the 'no dig' method and grow and sell the produce. It is also used for teaching local school children the method and each school has a small plot. They hand pull weeds and some parts look horrendously weedy.

    Neither they nor ourselves use chemicals of any sort but I don't know where they get compost from.
     
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    • Jiffy

      Jiffy The Match is on Fire

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      Lots of farmer tried it and now gone back to ploughing, if you have light sandy soils then it can be done with light workings then drill, but on heavy soil you don't get a good seed bed, but saying that, in a wet planting year and you can't work the soil you can just put the seed on by fert spreader which has been known to give very good results, but that can be just to how the weather can be at the time
       
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      • Graham B

        Graham B Gardener

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        Topsoil getting blown away is really a problem of soil structure. It happens in the Fens too if the soil dries out. I'm not a farmer, but I believe one thing that's being explored is digging the straw back into the soil to add that structure back. Decomposition takes some nitrogen, but that can be replaced with chemical fertilizers. And if some soil does blow around when it's dug over, you're putting back organic matter which will replace it. I don't know how well-established or well-researched this is though.

        I'm not sure this is quite so relevant to garden-scale growing though. Topsoil blowing away can only really happen on large windswept areas with nothing stopping the wind. The average garden has walls or fences round it, your house somewhere and usually other houses nearby, and is full of trees and shrubs, so we don't get that kind of conditions.

        What is relevant of course is replacing organic matter in the soil. And on this, gardeners are *way* ahead of farmers, because it's pretty easy to do on the scale of a few square metres of border or veg patch, and most of us don't mind spending the odd tenner down the garden centre for a few bags of compost. It's much harder to do on the scale of acres of farmland, and especially to do it cost-effectively.

        Having done most of my gardening around Cambridge too, my personal experience is that most of the soil problems in clay soil come from *too little* digging. Left to its own devices, and especially when walked on, it forms layers of hard pan which basically stops anything growing except the hardiest weeds. Worms literally can't get through it. Once you've broken it up, the worms have a chance, and spreading mulch on top does work. In lighter soils of course this isn't the case - I'm lucky now to be living in a more loamy area where the soil is naturally beautiful. But the point is that what's right for the soil will depend on the soil. Although you mostly can't go wrong with getting organic matter into the soil, especially if it's rotted down a bit so it doesn't suck the nitrogen out.

        Of course I'm just an amateur doing this because I enjoy it. :) It's a good idea for a thread, Mike - looking forward to seeing what the pros can tell us.
         
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          Last edited: Mar 1, 2020
        • JWK

          JWK Gardener Staff Member

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          Agree with @Jiffy regarding direct drilling. On my dad's farm we tried this method it saves time but always get lower yields. The direct drill was fitted with a spray boom to kill weeds so it's not as eco friendly as ploughing which buries the weeds and improves soil structure. Rotovating gives a good tilth for sowing finer seeds but is no use in some of our fields that had couch grass as it makes the problem much worse chopping up the underground stolons, each tiny piece regrows into a new plant!
           
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          • JWK

            JWK Gardener Staff Member

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            In my garden and allotment I like to dig or double dig incorporating manure. I can't do the no dig approach being such light soil the manure dries out and disappears over the summer.
             
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            • shiney

              shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

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              When we first moved in here the ground was solid clay. We improved it in a number of ways. Firstly we double dug it and dug in a lot of straw - taken from the field at the back before they burnt it. This helped to keep the clay broken up and aerate the ground. We also dug in a lot of horse manure.

              Over the next few years we were able to dig in a lot of home made compost as we make a couple of tons a year. The flower beds get this as a mulch and the veg plot has it only lightly dug in nowadays. The worms do the rest of the work.

              [​IMG]
               
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