Need Advise for new Lawn and levelling the garden

Scatter seed over it, and follow with a light covering of soil. If there are any big gaps, anyway.

You can expect it to not look very dense from the top. The grass plants have only put out a couple of blades each, so far. As the plants establish, they'll spread sideways to fill the gaps. Some of the "filled in" space on lawns is also thatch (dead grass blades) and above-ground roots, which of course your plants still haven't built up yet. So long as you've got a reasonable density of grass blades, you're good. If it ain't broke...

Next year, you need to topdress the lawn to even out the lumps and bumps which are inevitable from digging the soil over before reseeding. It's an essential step for getting a nice even lawn - do this in late spring for the two years after reseeding, and your lawn will be way better. (It looks temporarily worse, of course, but that passes quickly.)

I mention this because since you're scattering soil over the top anyway, topdressing is the perfect time to reseed any gaps. Scatter seed over the gaps (or anywhere it's looking a bit threadbare), topdress, done.

Yeah, the weeds are a sod. You just have to kind of look at them and think "enjoy it while it lasts - I'll get you later". One of those very narrow trowels that they sell for putting in bulbs is good for attacking things like dandelions without doing too much damage to the grass around it.

 

fencing

 

especially the side with the walkway next to it a good spikey rambling rose

 

Hi guys just an update, my lawn has come really good however i have got plenty of weeds shooting up as well. I'm not massively concerned there are few patchy areas, some grass blades are about 80mm and some are still 40mmish is it ok to give it a first mow now??

any other ideas and helps will be highly appreciated, when i mow it obviously i will be walking on it, i know i got no choice but just concerned it wont damage the lawn.

thanks

 

I have got my mower serviced and gave my lawn the first mow and I cant believe how beautiful my garden looks now after the first mow, here are some pics of before and after the mow...

There are few weeds but i guess I will deal with them next year, i will definitely need to over seed a few areas which i will do this week.

 

Hello Guys I m yet again in need of your guys help and experience here. So my lawn has think up quiet a bit now and i have had 4 mows now already however the half of the garder is growing at very slow rate and still got very fine grass as compared to the front half of the garden. You can tell by the color as well the front half the grass looks very thick and strong with nice wide blades however the back part and towards the half way the grass is very fine and with small weak blades and the grow rate is no way near the some other parts can you let me know what i can do to get things better and have even growth over all.

Is it normal will all the grass start to grow at a same rate in coming weeks?

Also the back end has suffered from weed quiet a bit, is it too early to treat them shall i wait untill next spring and apply weed and feed? weed is actually all over however not so significant at other parts but at the back its very significant as you can see from the pictures.

Thanks in advance

 

here are the clearer pics it gives an idea from half is darker colour and the blades are much thicker and grows at rapid rate, and towards middle and back its very fine blades and not growing as much i feel as if it will die down at this rate.

 

It will all catch up, im guessing the grass is like a creeping red fescue, that helps thicken the grass but takes time to get across the whole lawn. Patience is needed

 

I have used the rolawn medallion grass seeds.

 

Yup reygrass and fescue blend…….how long was it all sewn??

 

It’s too early to apply a herbicide, weed and feeds tend to be around 6 weeks from seed and for a new lawn the amount of nitrogen should not be required yet if you added topsoil as that will have plenty of nutrients to last a while.
Always read the label with any treatments to see the recommendations.

The best practise is to promote growth at a natural rate with new lawns so the plants production of carbohydrates is correct. It’s why grass should be cut at a nice height as green tissue is how photosynthesis works which leads to carbohydrates and it’s ability to store it.
High nitrogen feeds leads to excess use of carbohydrates and a reduced storage of carbohydrates which leads to poor turf structure and more prone to changes in the environment.

Herbicides known as selective for lawns can still harm the grass when it’s young so caution needs to be taken and it’s the same with high nitrogen feeds.

Personally if you want to try and encourage it then there are products that can be applied to help the turf in early stages like Agrigem Nutrigem which is a foliage feed and can be applied to aid new grass plant growth via a knapsack for best results. You can also add biostimulants which are available as liquid based treatments. These just aid the plants ability to take in a more natural supply of nutrients and tend to be a good supplement for lawns.

your next job then is to identify the weeds so you use the correct herbicide when the time is right. Unfortunately weed and feeds have changed over the last few years and don’t always offer the best solution now. You may have to consider a liquid based herbicide depending on the targeted plants and some herbicides are now only available for commercial use where the operator holds the relevant training.

Weed and feeds need to be applied at full rate to achieve best results, this means you can’t adjust the NPK rate if you wanted to lower the nitrogen.
Straight fertiliser can be adjusted through calculations if you prefer granular.

worth noting that different grass types produce thatch at different rates and excessive use of feeds increases the rate of thatch production so scarifying will play an important part of the yearly treatments to keep the turf in good order.

 

Hi it was all sewn around 20th April

 

Will take a fair few months for all too catch up with each other….patience is key when seeding a new lawn

 

Hi Liz thank you for your detailed message, I do understand that the urge to apply herbicides should be controlled at it will affect the young grass. However its annoying me as i see a lot of weeds coming through and i m starting to think that the area where the lawn grows at a slower rate is due to weeds taking over.

I have seeded the new lawn on the 20th April. i never used topsoil just rotavated and levelled my land and seeded it, i did however used the pre-seeding fertilizer from Rolawn.

Up until yesterday I had 3 mow at the highest blade setting so only taking a bit from the top. however yesterday I went a tiny bit shorter and there under the dark green color where the growth was rapid there was bit of yellowing of the lawn i m guessing its due to the lack of sunlight getting there. I am hopeful it will be back to normal all green in few days time. here are some pics from yesterday.

 

Normally yellowing that’s present below the top green section indicates an issue but it’s hard to see on the photos.
yellowing can be a sign of a deficiency if it’s there already before a cut but can also be other issues.

Is it uniform or areas of yellowing ie patches?

The pre seed fertiliser is slow release, how was this applied?

Before you started the work was the yellowing an issue on the old turf you removed or did you notice the grass was very pale?

some photos show a real yellowing effect, others look ok.