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Planting bulbs

Discussion in 'NEW Gardeners !' started by NEL, Mar 2, 2017.

  1. NEL

    NEL Apprentice Gardener

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    HI
    I'm very much an amateur gardener and have never been able to get bulbs to grow- apart from snowdrops which just appeared .
    I don't have a greenhouse or frame of any sort (though may buy a cheap one if I need to)as I have been given a load of bulbs including Anemone Blanda, Freesia, gladioli and Ixia Hogarth.
    Any advice on how to get them to grow?
    I've read that it's best to soak them first which is fine and have instructions on how deep and far apart to plant but even when I followed them last year I only got a couple of flowers from about 50 bulbs.
    I'd like to put them straight in garden but is it too cold/wet?
    Should I plant them in Pots then transfer to garden? If so what size of pot? Do I plant singly or several per Pot? How do I know how deep the roots will Grow?
    What compostime should I Use?
     
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    • Phil A

      Phil A Guest

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      Welcome to Gardeners Corner :sign0016:

      I'm veg and wildflowers department, but i'm sure someone will be along in a bit :spinning:
       
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      • ARMANDII

        ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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        "Where to plant bulbs


        Some bulbs need specific siting;

        • Most hardy bulbs, including tulips and daffodils, prefer a warm, sunny site with good drainage as they come from areas with dry summer climates
        • Bulbs from cool, moist, woodland habitats, such as Cardiocrinum, need similar garden conditions. Improve light or sandy soils with garden compost and heavy soils with compost plus grit


        How to plant bulbs


        Most bulbs are acquired and planted when dry, in a dormant, leafless, rootless state. Plant as soon as possible. They may flower poorly following later than recommended planting or after lengthy storage (see Problem section for more detail).

        Planting in borders
        Aim to plant in groups of at least six, as the more bulbs that are grouped together, the better the display. Typically, 25 to 50 bulbs may be needed to make an impressive show.

        This method applies to spring-, summer- and autumn-flowering bulbs:

        1. Dig a hole wide and deep enough for your bulbs. Work out the planting depth by roughly measuring the bulb from base to tip and doubling or tripling this length – this figure is the rough planting depth. For example, a 5cm (2in) high bulb should be 10-15cm (4-6in) below soil level
        2. Place the bulbs in the hole with their ‘nose’, or shoot, facing upwards. Space them at least twice the bulb’s own width apart
        3. Replace the soil and gently firm with the back of a rake. Avoid treading on the soil as this can damage the bulbs
        Some bulbs, such as winter aconites, bluebells and snowdrops, are thought to be best planted, moved or divided ‘in the green’, when flowering is over but they are still in leaf. However, dried bulbs are often offered and can be successful.

        In containers
        Most bulbs are ideal for growing in containers, but this especially suits those with large, showy flowers, such as tulips, lilies, arum lilies and alliums. Here are some tips for success:

        • For bulbs that are only going to spend one season in their container, use a mix of three parts multi-purpose compost with one part grit. For long-term container displays, use three parts John Innes No 2 compost mixed with one part grit
        • Plant at three times their depth and one bulb width apart
        • Water bulbs regularly when in active growth, but you can reduce watering once the leaves start to die down and then through the dormant season. However, continue to check pots in winter, ensuring they do not dry out completely
        • To promote good flowering next year, feed the bulbs every seven to ten days with a high-potassium fertiliser such as a liquid tomato feed. Begin feeding as soon as shoots appear, and stop feeding once the foliage starts to die down at the end of the season
        • If you bring pots of hardy bulbs indoors during flowering, put them in a sheltered spot outside as soon as flowering is over


        Problems
        There aren’t many problems to watch out for, apart from checking that the bulbs are healthy to start with (discarding any that are soft or show signs of rot). However, pests to look our for include slugs, snails, squirrels (particularly with tulips and crocus) and diseases such as daffodil viruses, grey mould in snowdrops, narcissus basal rot, tulip fire and tulip viruses.

        Missed planting your bulbs at the right time?
        It's easy to forget about bulbs, lost at the back of the shed or in the boot of the car. Or perhaps circumstances meant you weren't able to get them planted when you should have. If that's the case then the best thing to do is get them in the ground or potted up as soon as you can. If you leave them until the autumn or correct time, they'll simply have deteriorated further.

        Of course, discard any that are soft or rotten first but the remainder are worth a go, even if they have started to sprout. Some bulbs store longer than others (tulip compared to daffodil, for instance) so it will be a bit hit and miss. If you are relying on a display maybe top up with potted bulbs from the garden centre.

        You might also find they don't perform as expected in their first year - short flower stalks for example - but if they're a type of bulb that comes back year after year they should get better in subsequent years. Try adding a well-balanced fertiliser into the soil at planting time to help them recover."


         
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        • Linz

          Linz Total Gardener

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          Hi @NEL welcome :)
          Not much help but Ixia and freesia have never flowered for me the 2 years I tried them, I haven't grown anemone blanda but I have grown anemone coronaria and they have flowered pretty much since I potted them up ( which are under the same instructions as blanda in my books), I planted more last October in the ground (I have wet clayish soil) and they're all popping up nicely. Gladioli don't need soaking but seeing as you have, it wouldn't hurt to pot them but they don't like frost so maybe wrapping the pot up or putting in sheltered place will help, they will need lifting 6 weeks after flowering or when the leaves have totally gone brown, you pull the old shriveled corm off and keep the new one on top (wrap it in a bit of newspaper and label the color for reference), they do give you lots of baby cormlets you can also stick in a pot and grow on but they will take a few years to flower and will be the same colour as the parent.
           
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          • Linz

            Linz Total Gardener

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            Turns out I did plant anemone blanda last Oct. Took these yesterday, did look for the thread.. 20170307_110318.jpg
            20170307_110239.jpg
            I've also picked up freesia which I totally forgot about.. may as well get ixia (and sparaxis which failed) and try again!
             
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            • NigelJ

              NigelJ Total Gardener

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              Freesias originally came from South Africa and need a dry hot summer "bake" to flower. Many sold for summer flowering in the UK are heat treated and disappear after the first summer as they cannot cope with the cool damp winters we get.
              I have grown them, for many years, as follows I plant them in the autumn in big pots 20 or so to a large pot and leave outside until they sprout. Once they sprout I move them into a cold greenhouse and water occasionally, keep an eye open for aphids. Around February flower buds start to appear and then open March/April providing cut flowers for the house. Once flowering is finished they get moved out of the greenhouse and left to die off. Once they have died off I take the bulbs out clean them off discard any damaged ones and place them in a tray in the shed where they bake over the summer before replanting in the autumn. I have only had a couple of failures when we had very cool damp summers after which I got very few flowers.
              Generally most bulbs don't like wet heavy soil, they much prefer good drainage especially if left in the ground all year round.
               
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              • Linz

                Linz Total Gardener

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                Hmm that's my problem heavy wet soil, I think I might of planted them too deep in the ground as well. I'll try them in pots this year, thanks Nigel for the info :)
                 
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                • redstar

                  redstar Total Gardener

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                  those should be planted as deep as you would a crocus bulb, about to the 2 knuckle of your finger. I have several types, they like to make babies etc. there is on that is a rare darling, its probably in my pics of my gardens.
                   
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                  • Anthony Rogers

                    Anthony Rogers Guest

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                    Hi Redstar,

                    I've just tried to have s look at your photos but it says you haven't got any ! :(
                     
                  • redstar

                    redstar Total Gardener

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                    Let me see if they are on my facebook. have had trouble uploading here, so skipped here often. trust me have a ton.
                    Like here is one I can up load. springf-1-1.JPG
                     
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                    • redstar

                      redstar Total Gardener

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                      1399228_10203812459895782_6942046555075270148_o.jpg 903695_10201025466542690_713070195_o.jpg 12984012_10209606859632154_2396301735581284956_o.jpg

                      In this line up, the top blue is the rare one. I have many other spots where the white are around the property as well as regular blue, and some purples. My gardens are ruffly 26 years old. been posting pics here for a while, now there is uploading issues. And I am actually bored will posting the same plants each year, as the same come up in the general same area. So trust me if I say I have them, I do have them. By the way as far as BULBS, we estimate over 100,000 bulbs on our property.

                      Ok, so there you go @Anthony Rogers . Looks like the key is to find the pics on facebook and download to my computer then upload here. Some I probably did put on photobucket. But if they fixed the thing here, well we can dream.

                      BTW, in case your wondering, the tall blue flowers behind the white ones are Virginia Blue bells, and those are hard to come across and expensive for what I am told. Did sell a bunch to a man last spring, he gave me $60.00 for them, said they are rare. Mine just go nuts here.
                       
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                        Last edited: Mar 9, 2017
                      • Linz

                        Linz Total Gardener

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                        Lush, hope mine multiply out like yours. I only made that bed last year, so just dotted them about, same with the back border. I remember you posting about those Virginia bluebells, they're really pretty
                         
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                        • Redwing

                          Redwing Wild Gardener

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                          Anemone Blanda: I love these; they do need well drained soil and will not survive on clay. Either make a sandy bed or grow something else if you have clay. If on well drained soil they will survive really cold winters and dry summers. They flower pretty early and are such a delight on sunny early spring days.
                           
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                          • Linz

                            Linz Total Gardener

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                            The front bed is quite stony and sloped.. not holding much hope for the back border though, soil is heavy there. Ah well, I won't know if I don't try! :smile:
                             
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                            • ARMANDII

                              ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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                              Try digging in a bag of agricultural grit and a bag of sharp sand into the back border, Linz, as it will help with the drainage.:snorky:
                               
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