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Poinsettia

Discussion in 'Gardening Discussions' started by greenfingers, Jan 2, 2007.

  1. greenfingers

    greenfingers Gardener

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    Do anyone know why, the Christmas Festive favourite pot plant, the poinsettia never lasts long? Although mine has new growth developing, why do they not grow on for another year, is it because they are originally from South America and Mexico with the warm climate?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. UsedtobeDendy

    UsedtobeDendy Gardener

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    Sometimes they last fine, GF - I have mine from last year, and the top leaves are colouring nicely. This is the first time I've done this though - they've never done at all well before. I think it may be down to the way they've been handled before you even get them, or to being out in the cold when you're getting them home. This year's one came with instructions that you should keep the foliage well of reach of cold air, and get it into the house asap..... :rolleyes:

    Don't know if anyone has any other experiences of them? In this country, I mean..... LoL has some great photos of her ones in Portugal.....
     
  3. pete

    pete Growing a bit of this and a bit of that....

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    I've not tried it recently but I did keep one plant for a couple of years or so.
    The first thing to bear in mind that they have been grown in ideal conditions so any cold blasts or draughts are going to upset them, in effect they need to harden off.
    They tend to be taller the following year as well. I wonder if they use those growth retarding hormones on them to keep them bushy, or are they now banned.
    LOL says they will take a slight frost, so they cant be that tender.
     
  4. strongylodon

    strongylodon Old Member

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    No Pete, growth retardants are not banned (yet!)I use them on geraniums and occasionally lobelia and dahlias.
    I know in Florida and around they put zip up protective jackets on poinsettias and hibiscus and other delicate plants when very low temps or a frost is likely. [​IMG]
     
  5. good digger

    good digger Gardener

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    Poinsettia are what they call short day plants and our latitude is not condusive to their general wellbeing, you can keep them going by being very rigourous with the daylight regime but i think most people cannot be bothered doing this when new plants are readily available.
     
  6. UsedtobeDendy

    UsedtobeDendy Gardener

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    I thought you couldn't get that stuff people started spraying on their hedges to avoid having to cut them any more? Or is it just that it's available to people like you, Strongy?
     
  7. strongylodon

    strongylodon Old Member

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    Not sure about retail Dendy but it is obviously available to the trade. I only use them under glass for bedding.
    the one I use (Cycocel or Chlormequat)not only retards the upward growth but also increases basal branching producing a more bushy plant. [​IMG]
     
  8. Victoria

    Victoria Lover of Exotic Flora

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  9. UsedtobeDendy

    UsedtobeDendy Gardener

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    I think the stuff available to the public was called "Cutless" or something really twee like that - and I think it was one of those things withdrawn a few years ago.

    I can see the use commercially, although I'm not sure I like the idea of doing it - and I bet Hornbeam won't either!! :D
     
  10. pete

    pete Growing a bit of this and a bit of that....

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    Is this watered on strongy or sprayed?
    I think,(not Sure) Cutlass was used for spraying on hedges or similar to stop summer growth.
    The stuff strongy would use could be different as he still wants the plant to grow but more compact and flower at a lower height.
     
  11. good digger

    good digger Gardener

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    I think they use a conction that contains giberellins,which naturally occur in plants in particular a formula containing giberrelic acid.
     
  12. UsedtobeDendy

    UsedtobeDendy Gardener

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    You're quite right, Pete! On both counts!

    And yes, GD - that was the name I was trying to remember the other day when we were talking about plant hormones, and plants keeping leaves on..... It's all a vague memory in my head. I'm no scientist - more of a linguist! :rolleyes: :D
     
  13. strongylodon

    strongylodon Old Member

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    Pete, Cycocel is sprayed on geraniums at a three week interval and lobelia once if getting too straggly.
    I have no experience of retardants on outside shrubs(hedges).
    Dendy, yes I suppose Hornbeam would not like it and I don't blame him, we are using less and less chemicals now (about four)but at the present time cannot stop completely.
     
  14. Marley Farley

    Marley Farley Affable Admin! Staff Member

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    [​IMG] Only just seen this thread dendy & greenfingers... [​IMG] These are the instructions I have followed in the past & have managed to keep them growing & even got the red brachts following these instructions... ;) [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    Euphorbia pulcherrima Poinsettia

    Culture:

    Poinsettia is a native of Mexico and can grow to 8-10 feet tall in the wild. In the U.S. they are considered the symbolic plant of the holidays and are grown to remain under 3'. They prefer a humid environment and a temperature of 67f during the day, 45f at night.They prefer bright indirect light. Poinsettias can be fertilized year-round but more heavily in late summer(short break in April and May). Some of the major problems with Poinsettias are cool or warm drafts and improper soil moisture. If the soil is too wet, crown or root rot will set in, if it is too dry the plant will drop leaves and have poor flower color. Discard drainage water in saucers to prevent root rot.The soil should always be moist but not soggy. The plant can easily be propagated with cuttings taken in the spring or early summer. Repotting can be done in late summer just before it goes into a flowering light schedule, or in late spring just before the rush of new growth emerges. White flies can be a serious threat, spray with insecticidal soap, repeated treatments are usually necessary.

    Keeping a Poinsettia alive throughout the year:

    During the holiday time December to January

    Place the plant in a bright sunny window for everyone to enjoy.. If you live in an older house be careful of drafty windows. Also be careful of heating registers and fireplaces, if the temperature around the plant goes above 70-72f the flower bracts will fade. At this time of the year the plant needs very little care. Fertilize with a half strength all-purpose fertilizer to keep the flower color going thru January.

    Winter.. February to March

    Fertilize at half strength once every third watering. When flower bracts show signs of fading it is time to put the plant into dormancy. Some plants won't start to fade until late March others may turn in early-mid February. There are a few simple things you need to do to induce dormancy. First, is to heavily prune the plant back to about eight
    inches tall, leaving one or two leaves per branch.See picture. The branches that are cut off can make good stock for propagating. It may be a good idea to wear gloves while pruning, members of the Euphorbia genus have a white milky sap that is irritating to the skin for some people. After pruning, cut back the amount of water so that the top inch (2cm.)of the soil is dry between watering ( no fertilizing).

    Spring.. April to June

    By mid-late April increase the frequency of watering and fertilize with (12-12-12 or 20-20-20). By late May the plant should be growing vigorously. This is a good time to up-pot if needed.(I personally would recommend a repotting now because it gives the roots a fresh environment to grow and support new growth.Potting soil can build up salt quickly in a container. The plant will enjoy the fresh, pH neutral soil.)By June it should be warm enough to put the plant outside if you want. But be careful to shelter it from drying winds and keep a close eye on soil moisture.

    Summer.. July to September

    Keep on your schedule of watering and fertilize about every other watering with half strength. In mid July the branches will need to be pinched back about 2-3" to promote a short dense habit. This is the season of White Flies, be careful to check plants before you bring them indoors in late summer. It is better to identify a pest problem early and be able to treat the problems outdoors and bring in a clean, healthy plant. Starting in mid-late September you will need to do alittle more work. The Poinsettia plant is photoperiod sensitive which means that the plant is triggered to flower by the decrease in the length of light. Sensing that the days are shorter the plants puts all it's energy into reproduction (flowers and stamen).The poinsettia will set flower buds only after being exposed to the short day (10 hours of light or less) for about 10 weeks. This can be very tricky because the light cycle has to be very strict. Exposure to a 60 watt light bulb for ten minutes is enough to disturb the flowering cycle. An unused closet or large box is ideal for isolating a plant overnight. Each morning bring out the plant and place it in a sunny window where it will stay very close to 70f.

    Autumn.. October & November

    Keep fertilizing and watering as usual. Make sure that the plant is not too cold during the long nights. Temperature at nights should be 45-55 f. After 9-10 weeks, mid-late November, the bracts should start to develop and at this point you are done. Bring the plant out to the normal household light and enjoy the year-long work you have accomplished! It may seem like alot of work when you could have just bought a new poinsettia, but it is so much more satisfying to display a plant you grew yourself.
    [​IMG] Good Luck.. [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  15. good digger

    good digger Gardener

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    And that is a fully comprehensive guide to growing poinsettias my friend, what a lot of info.
     
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