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Any carpenters/joiners/woodworkers in?

Discussion in 'General Gardening Discussion' started by Fat Controller, Jun 3, 2014.

  1. Fat Controller

    Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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    My new shed arrived yesterday, flat-packed, and is on the agenda for the build to be carried out over the next couple of weeks (allowing time to clear out and dismantle the old one).

    The floor/base will consist of a frame made from 63mm x 19mm studwork (comes in 2.4m lengths), which I will then wrap in damp proof course to keep it dry.

    The base has to be 3.03m in length which will obviously require me to join two pieces of wood together to get the desired length - - do I:

    a) use a couple of flat jointing plates screwed on to either side of the join to hold it together until the flooring boards are screwed on to then give it full integrity

    b) cut overlap joints, whacking a screw or two through the overlap section (is this overkill given that the whole thing is being topped off with 11mm thick OSB boarding screwed down to the frame?)

    c) something else (I am no joiner, so very much open to suggestions)


    Also, my brain is telling me to use the studwork with the 63mm face horizontal, purely so there is more of it in contact with the top boarding to spread the load; is my thinking correct?
     
  2. pete

    pete Growing a bit of this and a bit of that....

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    Did this shed come with no instructions?
    Not come across this kind of thing, but 63x19 seems a bit puny for a shed floor, the 19 bit that is.
    My guess would be it goes on edge, ie 63 deep.
    How you connect two lengths together to make 3m from 2.4 is anybodys guess, just overlap them and screw together, perhaps?

    Might be a good idea to stand them on DPC but I'd not wrap them, you could be trapping moisture inside after a while.
    Airflow under the floor is best.
     
  3. Fat Controller

    Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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    Sorry, sorry - its not 19mm deep, its 63mm x 38mm - - the 19mm was banging around in my head as it was half of the 38mm that would be for the overlap.

    The DPC wrap is 100 mm, so would cover the bottom of the studwork, and then about halfway up each side to hopefully allow airflow whilst not allowing the timber to stand in any ponding water for any length of time.

    EDIT - the shed is a metal one, which will have instructions for its own construction, but the base and floor is not included. It simply needs to be 303cm x 283 cm
     
  4. Fat Controller

    Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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    Just working it out with the 63mm side horizontal, 6 x joist lengths would have gaps (bridged with a few spars along the length of the gap) of 400mm - - - so in English they would be about 16 inches apart with the 11mm flooring screwed down on top; surely that should be man enough for the job? (certainly much higher spec than the current shed)
     
  5. pete

    pete Growing a bit of this and a bit of that....

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    Not really sure what you are doing, but 400 centres is fairly normal for joists.
     
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    • Fat Controller

      Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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      I am aiming to make a sort of 'grid' of joists (roughly like the image below), then laying OSB3 boards on top, screwed down onto the grid frame, to give a flat floor. The whole thing will then be levelled using either building bricks or more timber, isolated with DPC to prevent any dampness travelling.


      base.png


      EDIT - I understand that a table saw like this one has a maximum cutting depth (in the case of the one in the link its 45mm), but do they also have a maximum flat width for cutting boards?
       
    • Jungle Jane

      Jungle Jane Middle Class Twit Of The Year 2005

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      Just to clarity. The woodwork you are undertaking is for building the base only? This has nothing to do with the shed walls? If so building a stud wall for a floor is a really bad idea as the batons in between the joist hold no real strength.

      I can elaborate more on joinery that I've picked up from Mr Jane but it's still not really clear what this is all for.
       
    • Fat Controller

      Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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      It is for the base only, yes. The whole thing will be sat on concrete, so the wood is not the only thing holding the building up

      Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
       
    • Mr Jane

      Mr Jane Guest

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      This looks ok to me. Keep the floor joists on edge as this adds rigidity. Arrange the OSB sheets so that the edges are either at right angles to the joists, or so they meet over the top of a joist.

      I haven't looked at the table saw, but what's wrong with a hand saw? The table saw will be limited by what you can safely manhandle through it. Out feed tables or rollers can be arranged to help with this. But personally I'd stick with a hand saw; I could cut up a sheet of OSB in less time than it takes to find my wallet to buy the table saw!

      Edit: having looked at the link now, I definitely don't fancy pushing any sheet goods through a saw that size

      disclaimer: I'm not a professional, just a hobbyist wood butcher
       
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      • Fat Controller

        Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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        Champion, thank you :)

        The OSB boards will be at right angles to the joists, and the intention is to have them screwed down to each joist, and then try to have the other joists that are bridging the gaps between the joists set so they are under the join between sheets.

        I have access to a circular saw, I was just wondering if it might give a straighter cut? I am not the best at cutting dead straight (possibly partly due to the el cheapo saw I have)

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      • Mr Jane

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        Perfect :)

        The short joists that bridge the gaps are called noggins :)

        The trick is; once you've started the cut straight, relax your hand. The saw will naturally want to follow a straight line without being steered
         
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        • Fat Controller

          Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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          Thanks again :)

          I shall endeavour to take pictures as I go

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          • JWK

            JWK Gardener Staff Member

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            I usually get big sheet materials cut to size at B&Q, they do one cut for free and this means they are easier to handle and get into the car. Saves faffing about with saws if you're not great at cutting straight.
             
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            • Jungle Jane

              Jungle Jane Middle Class Twit Of The Year 2005

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              Their saws a pretty much on the wonk half the time though I have found.
               
            • Fat Controller

              Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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              I've had a look at the saw I have in the shed, and its pretty past it to be honest - its done well in fairness to it, I've had it years and it was about three quid if I remember correctly.

              Is there any particular brand or style of saw that I should be looking at as a replacement?
               
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