Fresh Manure Compost

So I just want to run this over with folks as Ive been on the internet and youtube which as always contradicts itself in ways but has running points.

My neighbour has a donkey and two shetlands, so I asked her to keep me some manure not thinking there would be so much considering their size, how I was wrong. So I now have a full link box load, but I dont have a compost bed ready and just formed it up in a cone shape.

Ive seen other people do smething similar, then cover it and leave. Should I do the same and leave it?

I do wan to make a proper bed, with at least 2 to alternate and rotate. If I do then should I add in other things like cardboard (my business means I have mountains of it) and whilst winter I could find some grass clippings too. Im also clearing away bushes so have twigs etc too.

 

You can leave it in a pile but I have read it can leach out the goodness.. ie if it gets wet the run off would contain most of the nutrients..not sure how true that is though. Think your best off getting a bin and chucking it in there for time being. Is it well rotted or fresh?

Regarding your twigs and grass..There's a brilliant thread by Shiney on composting, have a search.

 

Hi Greecko, There's what's known as 'long straw' manure (unrotted) and 'short straw' manure (well-rotted). If it's yellowish with obvious bits of straw in it, it's too fresh to use near plants. Linz is right about uncovered heaps losing a lot of the nutrient value, so it rather depends whether you are going to use it just to improve the texture of your soil, or as a source of fertiliser. If the latter, try to keep it covered and dry. Once it's black and crumbly with no smell, it's ready to use for anything pure black gold! You could use it in a mixed compost heap as an activator but the twigs will take some breaking down, so it won't be ready to use as quickly as a pure manure heap. On the bright side, if you've got the space to have another delivery later on, and to make two heaps, after the initial wait, you'll always have some ready to use

 

Many weed seeds are able to survive a horses digestive system, so it needs hot composting first to destroy them before spreading.

 

Greecko

For me manure, any manure, is mainly about improving the soil.....the texture, quality and water/nutrient holding capacity. The fertiliser element not so important
I would cover it, turn it occasionally and use it in spring if it is suitable then.

I regularly had access to well rotted cow manure ....few tons....and liberally applied it over veg garden in the autumn....September/October. By the following spring, after physically breaking it up, it produced excellent crops. The exception was where carrots were grown and manure was kept well away from these.

 

Not just seeds either, Scrungee! Bindweed and couch grass sneak in from time to time....

 

It is preferable to hot compost as already mentioned and the accepted minimum size of heap to achieve that is 3ft square, which you will no doubt aim for when making a permanent area for it.

You could layer it with the cardboard that you mention you have access too, remove labels/staples and tape first, rip/shred it up as small as you can.

Layer it like a Lasagne, layer of muck, then grass, then card, more muck, kitchen waste etc etc. Cover it and leave for four weeks, then turn it to see how it is doing, if the additions have rotted down mostly, add some more. If not recover for 4 weeks then turn again.

A compost heap is like a good recipe initially then must be managed or watched.

Steve...

 

Folks, as always thank you very much for the info!.

Do I really need to form it up between pallets etc or is that just more for tidiness? Ill try and get a photo but its just in a big pile to one side of the plot (read plot as old field)

I know the weed problem with horses, but thankfully I have all the bind weed and mares tail etc already so Im a seasoned weed killer Not to mention some Japanese knotweed I have on the retreat after 5 years.

So fist thing it seems I need to do is definitely get a cover for it all! I might make a small hea today as weve some sheet tin for the walls and stake it up. It does seem easier to turn that way. As we are cattle farmers we do have cow manure, but its getting it to a nice consistency is the issue but I might start making piles and letting it dry/rot

 

I am well acquainted (far too)with horse manure having kept equines for over 20 years.
It is obviously only my opinion but unless you have a tarpaulin handy I wouldn’t bother to cover the heap although covering it does help getting the manure hot. I also don’t see the need to move the heap,that sounds like a load of hard work! Ideally it probably is better to have it enclosed to stop it spreading but as it sounds as tho it’s not in anybody’s way I would reserve your energies for when the end product does need to be moved.
While some nutients might be washed out if the manure is left uncovered, it needs to be kept pretty wet to encourage the rotting down process. If covered you might end up having to water it which is just a pain.

 

Forming it into one tidy block allows the heap to heat up in a controlled way, ie the majority of it except for the extreme edges, you turn the heap to allow those edges their turn with the heat and to allow air into the heap. Having a full watering can at turning time, dampen any dry areas. Using pallets will allow air circulation and some rain in at the sides.

I have 4 separate heaps all uncovered and about 5 months old on my plot, one very large heap in pallets will probably stay uncovered as it is to be spread on beds.

3 smaller ones in a corrugated tin area have reduced by half, these will be combined into one bay, "lasagned" with other green waste, newspaper and comfrey, covered in carpet then plastic. This will get it nice and toasty anerobically to rot it down by spring. It will be the basis of next years potting on compost.

3 smaller heaps, tin construction 4ft square



will be combined, layered and covered into one to do this.



The large pallet area/heap. This one from last year I think..



It all depends on how you intend to use your manure and when, and if you intend to, can or want to add stuff to it.

Steve...

 

Regarding shape of heap there's 2 main issues, (1) efficient use of space and (2) surface area to volume ratio affecting heat loss.

Three 1.2 x 1m pallets (with some removabe boards across the front) could be used to create a composter 1.2 x 1.2 x 1m high with a volume of 1.44 m3, but a simple heap on the same area on plan, with a 45 degree angle of repose, 1.2m diameter and 600mm high would only have a volume of 0.23 m3, less than a sixth of the volume of a pallet structure.

The surface area of the pallet composter (top and 4 sides) would be 6.24 m2 (4.33m2 per m3) and that of the heap would 2.7 m2 (11.74 m2 per m3), nearly 3 times as much surface area/m3.

 

Cheers for the photos Steve, I plan on doing mine much the same I hope, have tin sheets about the place and could grab a few pallets and stuff too if needs be.

Spoken like a true engineer haha! I know Ill get more out of it but was thinking of being lazy.

I can get the manure regularly and grass clippings too as weve big gardens, plus loads of cardboard from our family business. Thanks again Scrungee