Replacement shed...and nudging into a corner?

I am looking to replace our current worn out 10'x8' wooden garden shed with, possibly, a self-build replacement. However the snag is that the current shed sits quite snugly in the corner of the garden with fence panels on the left side and rear from neighbouring gardens. Most self-build (or paid installations for modular assembly kits) require a minimum of 24-inch spacing all round to undertake the assembly and post-build inspection, but I don't want to have this wasted space in the garden. Would it be possible to 'nudge' into the corner once assembled?
We were thinking of a pressure treated timber shed to minimise the need for annual treatment, especially given the difficult access once moved into the corner, and the fact that the neighbour's fencing will afford a certain level of protection.
Any advice on being able to 'nudge' the assembled shed into the corner without damaging it? Do I need the assistance of the local rugby team pack? If the Egyptians could move those heavy stones when building the pyramids surely 21st century man can solve this puzzle?

 

I'm in the process of building a shed to replace the pile of rotten wood that used to reside in my garden.
Same criteria, up against the fence. I'm levelling and building the base, building the side which is against the fence. then I can frame and panel the rest. All you need to do is build both sides that have limited access and shimmy them into place once they're built.
As for the Egyptians, they had a little help with the pyramids by using slave labour.....do you know of 10,000 people in servitude who could lend you a hand?

 

Do we presume that the desired shed is delivered flat packed, and that the new size is no bigger than existing?
Suitable sheds would be designed to sit upon the floor edges, not around it, care should be taken to specify this.
Lay base floor first ,central to available site.
It should be possible to assemble back to (say)lefthand side, then slide in right hand side, secure with SCREWS from the inside. Then position the 3 parts on the base floor and fix down at the rear. Brace across top edges while then placing the front in position. Secure fully, checking for squareness (Measure internal diagonals) Assuming a pent roof, raise one section in position and secure. Prop in side. Gingerly ascend onto the fitted roof piece to position second part . Screw together; and fix at sides. Perhaps a 10x8 shed will have roof in 4 sections? I would expect to be able to do this with only one willing, but able accomplice. Apply roof felt from the top.

 

To be honest I have "nudged" a metal container into place with 3 other people on two metal beams so yes it can be done, just needs a bit of forethought.

 

Yes, I am looking a delivery of a flat pack 'kit' for self-assembly, and the same size as the existing 10x8. Note that the product I am considering is modular in that it has 4ft/2ft panels that are screwed together, but the tricky bit is that there are cover strips for the joins, and corners, that you need access to fit - hence one of the reasons for the 24-inch clearance. Also, when fitting/dressing the roof felt you need room to apply the edge 'tacks' etc.
I suppose one test will be to determine how many people are needed to lift the pre-assembled kit of parts before unpacking and checking contents...
...BTW, great reference to the clearance between pyramids!

 

I've recently installed a tool shed and a potting shed - they both came with a single piece roof - which is lifted into place and slots on top of the walls. I could have easily applied the felt before installing the roof. I also found out that you do not tack the roof felt at the rear of the roof - something to do with keeping run off water away from the rear shed wall.

The storms we had whipped off the smaller tool shed roof - so it is now held down with some small metal brackets.

Back to your original question - I had the same dilemma - how far to slot the shed into the corner. I decided on just enough space to let me paint the back of the shed using a long handled roller.

The real trick is installing the base in the correct position - so that all you need to do is place the shed wall on the base and screw it down into place. Spend all your time getting the base level and in the correct position - if you get this right - the rest is easy.

If you pre-assemble the roof and treat the walls against the corner before installing - you can have the shed as close to the fence as the base will allow you.

If you want some ideas on home made shed bases - not the tat that the manufacturers sell - I've posted up some pictures on this forum (can't remember which section though) so you may to do a bit of searching if you want to see them.