Replacing a gate post that is concreted in?

So the poor farmer or proffesional, can go on being poisoned by it..doesn't seem to make sense ....

 

If the grdener profeshional or farmer wears a half mask respirator and chemical proof gloves then its perfectly safe.

Creocote is a damned effective product and IMO no more harmfull than exposure to the current pressure treatment preservatives.

I have yearly blood tests due to to pestcontrol work I do and the exposure to OP and carbamate pesticides.... I do (usually!!) wear respirator etc spraying and consequentially the blood test results are always ok.

These things are only harmfull to the ignorant who dont take precautions, same for asbestos.

 

Glad you take all the precautions Paul that's the trouble not many do,we had a guy came round several years ago offering to dip your fence panels in creosote he had a flat back truck with a large tank of the stuff he just dipped the panels in let them drain for 5min and that was it no safety gear at all I couldn't believe it.

 

Larkshall - your comments about not using concrete in the past make sense. I just wonder how stable the post is over time. It may not rot at the surface but does it move?

I am about to put up a 12 foot farm gate hung off big oak posts (8" x 8" with probably around 1.5m above ground and 1m below) and was planning on concrete. Wondering now if should try with just compacted soil/hardcore.

 

It makes one wonder how I have survived for 73 years after using creosote, pitch and tar for many years and add to that naptha and petrol:D Oh, I nearly forgot the asbestos sheeting that I used to saw and drill .

 

"I am about to put up a 12 foot farm gate hung off big oak posts (8" x 8" with probably around 1.5m above ground and 1m below) and was planning on concrete. Wondering now if should try with just compacted soil/hardcore."

Use the hardcore method, Ive hung dozens of gates this way. If youve not got one buy a large punnel ( tamper) to compact the hardcore / soil with:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/63805/Hand-Tools/Builders-Tools/Digging-Tools/Roughneck-Tamper-10-x-10

You can also use the back of a heavy sledge hammer.

 

Thanks Paul. I presume no problems with the post moving from upright later even with a very heavy gate? (well at least no more that might get with concrete over time)

 

I would suggest that you coat the part going in the ground with tar, I doubt if 1 metre would be deep enough for a 12 ft gate, you would probably need 1.5 metres in the ground. If properly rammed it would hold it, concrete will not hold any better, it's all down to the theory of beams and levers. The longer and heavier the gate the deeper and thicker the post needs to be.

 

Thanks - I think I'll give it a go that way but bloody hell if I have to dig much deeper I'll need a mining hat.:wink:

Also sorry for the dumb questions but any advice as to what is the best material to use for compacting? Presumably soil from the hole mixed in with what ballast or small gravel?

 

What a great idea.
We have a couple of posts gone.
They are well hidden behind the bushes, I could do that with them.
Thanks.:thumb:

 

"Also sorry for the dumb questions but any advice as to what is the best material to use for compacting? Presumably soil from the hole mixed in with what ballast or small gravel?"

Soil and rubble ie small and large stones, old bricks, bits of concrete etc. No need for ballast.

 

Cheers for the tips, I was going to re concrete it in but I have a lot of soil, rubble and bricks.

I am going for 6ft above ground and 2ft below is this enough to hold a cast iron gate if held in by compacting hardcore?

 

Defintely not (unless you drill into rock). For a small hand gate of the type you suggest you would need at least 3 ft in the ground.

 

I 've always had problems digging holes for fence posts.

Basically to get deeper than 2ft seems to mean the surrounding soil gets disturbed and I end up with a hole about 3ft wide.

My ground is clay subsoil with chunks of sandstone in it.
I tend to do my best not to disturb a large, area and make a straight sided hole, which I then fill with concrete.
If its a wooden post its best if you can bring the concrete above the surrounding level, so that water tends to drain away from the post

Its worked up till now.

I've never hung a five bar gate out in the middle of nowhere though, so that is probably a different kettle of fish.

One other thing I aways consdider, bearing in mind I live on a housing estate, is chopping through drains etc. if you start going very deep.

 

Pete, ideally you want one of these:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/18393/Hand-Tools/Builders-Tools/Digging-Tools/Post-Hole-Borer

Farr eaiser than with a spade and you avoid the problem of disturbing the surounding soil.

For gate posts etc there are bigger versions of the above tool sold at farm supliers.