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Sheds

Discussion in 'General Gardening Discussion' started by Fat Controller, Jan 20, 2019.

  1. Fat Controller

    Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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    A sound idea @BellaBlue, however just to the side of the manhole, the patio level slopes up toward our outhouse which has an opening window, and beside it the alleyway into our back garden. Even an 8 ft shed would be infringing on the manhole, so we can either raise the whole shed up, or cut a hole in the floor (adding reinforcement), or both.

    On the shed we have pretty much settled on, the bearers on the floor would be running in an opposing direction to the 'drop' on our patio, so at the least I would have to put bricks/blocks under the shed with DPC on top. Of course, the height of those bricks would be optional - but I am not convinced that we would get it high enough to allow access without us needing a ladder to get into the thing :biggrin:
     
  2. BellaBlue

    BellaBlue Gardener

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    Flippin' manholes .… never in the right place!

    I'm sure you will come up with something.
     
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    • Fat Controller

      Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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      The best of it is, we have been here for 8 years now and have never had to lift either of the covers, but you can bet that if we were to put up a new shed and not do something about it, we would run into trouble within weeks.

      I fully exect to modify a shed floor, screw it all down and then we will never look at it again - - but if I don't do it..........
       
    • BellaBlue

      BellaBlue Gardener

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      I had a survey done on this house before I bought it and was warned not to buy it as there was no access to pipes etc. for maintenance.

      There IS actually one which is some kind of tray inlaid with the same material as the driveway. Clever. There a tool somewhere for lifting it up if needed.

      Luckily it is not in a place where one would want to place a shed :biggrin:
       
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      • ricky101

        ricky101 Total Gardener

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        Hi FC,

        Caberboard as I know it is a chipboard flooring used in houses that moisture resistant, not something I would normally associate with a shed floor ?? -Perhaps they do a special version for sheds ??
        Would not use chipboard sheets on any part of a shed, OSB or Ply only.

        Probably the best flooring would be 18mm "marine grade" plywood but thats about £25 a sq mtr though the more typical WBP Exterior grade is about £10 sq mtr.

        To make things clear, could you put an outline of the shed onto the pic so we can see how far the ironwork is covered, can see the greenhouse is 10ft, but are the flags 18"?
        I would say as long as its within the sheds outer edge then its no real problem to make an access cover in the floor, with extra bracing for the runner/s cut into.

        Cannot see raising the shed on blocks for access would practical at all.

        001436.jpg
         
      • Fat Controller

        Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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        It does seem to be some sort of composite material - hard, admittedly, but composite none the less. OSB, no way I want it anywhere near anything after this experience.

        18mm ply would be dandy, but it is not an option on the shed I am looking at - it is 12mm, 19mm or 28mm T&G only, hence opting for the 28mm as that will add strength (particularly if we are going to have to make a hatch in the floor). The floor itself can be screwed back in place to additional bearers (we can screw them into the other bearers from the other side of the floor before we put it down) - pic below shows what I believe will be our line (allowing room at the back once all the slabs have gone, should we wish to paint it, although with this one that would not be needed as it is pressure treated)

        smod.jpg

        I want to leave more space between the greenhouse and the shed this time around too, in case we need to paint etc.
         
      • ricky101

        ricky101 Total Gardener

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        Assuming the base has to be screwed together by you, then it would be easy to cut and / or move that spar and put a extra spar and / or noggins in to support the floor and hatch before you lay it.

        Still going to be a big job to erect it, assume your friendly helpers still around and you have plenty of time and good weather.

        You might find the plastic double glazing installers packers/ wedges sold on ebay/screwfix etc very handy for small level adjustments.

        Also you might want to use some of this Aviary mesh around the open ends of the base to stop any wildlife getting under there.
        Gardman Galvanised Cage And Aviary Mesh
         
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        • Fat Controller

          Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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          Thankfully, by the time any shed is delivered (4-6 weeks) my main guy will be fit, and my youngest brother in law has also offered to help (in return for being fed and watered - he loves coming to us, as he always leaves with a full belly), so putting it up should be OK. I reckon a weekend all in should do it.

          Good tips on the packers and the mesh, thanks @ricky101 :)
           
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          • Sheal

            Sheal Total Gardener

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            That mesh is called twill weld, my mum used it many years ago on her aviaries.

            Sounds like you've got a plan together FC. :thumbsup:
             
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            • JWK

              JWK Gardener Staff Member

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              This is the same way I installed my wooden shed on the allotment. Leaving a clear air gap plus chicken wire to stop pests. There was no other foundation, dug out the soil and poured a few inches of concrete then two layers of blocks, dpc then bearers on top. The only other thing is I buried thick wire in the trench and ran this up each corner and stapled. My allotment is on a windy hillside so I did that to stop it blowing away. You shouldn't have that problem as I recall your garden is sheltered.
               
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              • Fat Controller

                Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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                Yes, it is sheltered and now also reasonably level - I think we will be going with building bricks or breeze blocks, depending on what the consensus is as to which would be best?
                 
              • ricky101

                ricky101 Total Gardener

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                Not quiet sure what you are looking at doing there ?
                Do you mean a perimeter of bricks/blocks ?
                Probably the best and cheapest to go for is Engineering bricks which will give you a 75mm air gap over the existing bases runners; surely enough ?
                Class B Red Engineering Brick 65mm | Wickes.co.uk

                For a shed that size and the heavy weight your are going to be placing in there the whole floor needs supporting in a similar fashion to the existing wooden floor/base.

                From the pics on their site the sides are made in smaller sections, so unless they already suggest a sealant, I would be tempted to use builders clear silicone along all sides and partic the bottom edge of those frames as you erect /secure them.
                 
              • Jiffy

                Jiffy The Match is on Fire

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                I was just thinking, if the dpc will stop water rising up, won't it hold water around the bearers and slow down any drying of the wood bearers when/if they get wet from the rain etc,
                i would have though that block then dpc then block with bearers on top may be better, just a thought
                 
              • shiney

                shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

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                Would it also be a good idea to rod through the drain before doing anything else - or would that be tempting fate?
                 
              • john558

                john558 Total Gardener

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                Probably a good idea to see which way the soil pipes run and if you can get the rods in both sides............if that makes sense:thud:
                 
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